Elding Whale Watching Tour, Reykjavik, RebeccaWanderlusting

Elding Whale Watching in Reykjavik

On October 1, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International TravelLeave a comment

Ever since I was young, I’ve been fascinated by the ocean and everything in it. I think watching the movie Jaws at an impressionable age had something to do with it. For this reason, the whale watching tour in Reykjavik was the first thing I booked for my Iceland trip. I had read plenty of reviews on tour companies there, and Elding Whale Watching Tours was the one that stuck out the most to me, so that is who I booked.

I took the tour on my third evening in Reykjavik, choosing to board the boat that left at 5:00pm. The tours depart from the Old Harbor, and all of the different companies have offices along the pier. I went to pick up my ticket from the Elding Whale Watching storefront and the woman who worked there offered me a sea sickness tablet due to the choppy water conditions and high wind, which I gladly accepted. To enter the actual boat, I walked through a boat that stayed docked which housed a gift shop and bar. When the Elding staff ushered us onto the boat we’d head out on, they offered us more sea sickness tablets and red jump suits to keep warm.

The boat had a lounge with a bar below deck, but everyone on the boat stayed up top. The guide was a marine biologist and was wonderfully informative. For the duration of the tour, she kept up a running commentary on whale facts in between shouting out things like “MINKE WHALE TEN O’CLOCK, HEADED EAST!” Every time she yelled such directives, everyone on the boat, myself included, ran to try and catch a glimpse of the whale. I’m sure this was hilarious to watch, considering the fact that the boat was rocking back and forth and we all staggered from side to side like drunkards.

The view from the boat was fantastic; Reykjavik was behind us and the mountains and never-ending ocean stood in front of us. We saw quite a few minke whales jumping out of the water, and a pod of harbor porpoises jumping alongside the boat. The tour lasted about two and a half hours and once we headed back to the harbor, most of the guests on the boat moved into the lower deck to warm up.

The excitement of being out on the sea and searching for whales made you forget about the cold, but it was quite chilly and windy out there. Once the boat was docked, the crew announced that their restaurant, Mar, would give a 15% discount for Elding tour guests, so that’s where I headed next. There are quite a few restaurants along the pier there, and Mar is at the far end.

I walked in and asked for a table for one, and seeing since the huge restaurant was mostly empty, I figured I would be seated right away. This was not the case. The host, a good-looking young man, informed me that they had a large party coming in and they wouldn’t have availability for another two hours. Thinking he was joking, I said “oh sure, I’ll just wait here then”. He was not joking. So I left and looked around outside for a party of 50-60 people that were going to take up this whole restaurant. There was none, and I won’t lie, I felt a little defeated after that. But! It turned for the best because I went across the street to Reykjavik Fish Restaurant and wound up sitting next to two American girls (one from Chicago!) who I had a great conversation with.

These ladies, coupled with the amazing fish and chips at the restaurant made up for the not so great experience at Mar. The fried cod was so light and delicious; I was very glad I ended up there for dinner. After dinner and saying goodbye to my fellow travelers, I wander around Reykjavik a bit, wondering if perhaps it was even prettier after dark. Either way, I was very happy to be there, taking it all in.

Have you ever taken a whale watching tour? Did you see any marine life?

Solo Trip Snapshots, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach and Perlan

On September 28, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International TravelLeave a comment

On my third day in Iceland, I checked out of my AirBnB and into Hotel Holt in downtown Reykjavik. Because I was early, my room wasn’t ready so I dropped off my bags and headed towards Perlan, a futuristic-looking building with a observation deck and rotating restaurant at the top. The front desk agent at the hotel assured me that it was a walk-able distance away, and it was, but it wasn’t a very pretty walk. I looped over, under, and along the highway, and then up a set of stairs onto a path through a forest (a generous term for groves of trees in Iceland). Through the forest and a clearing filled with yellowed grass, the top of the Perlan building emerged in all its blue glass glory.

Inside, there’s a fine dining restaurant that spins, completing one full circle every hour, and a cafeteria, which is a cheaper option if you’re looking to eat here, but not by much. Around the cafeteria is the observation deck, which provides a stunning 360 degree view of the city and the mountains and ocean beyond it.

I did end up eating in the cafeteria, and paid more than I’d like to admit for a bowl of soup. But at least the complimentary view was nice! The observation deck is free to enjoy and the view is absolutely worth the hike over from downtown.

There wasn’t much else around Perlan, but according to my map it was walking distance to the Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach which was where I headed next. This actually would have been a really beautiful walk down a tree-lined trail and along the coast, however, I ran into some roadwork that cut a deep divot out of the road I was to be walking down.

There were two workers in the truck next to the construction site, and because I had no desire to turn around, I asked if I could climb through it to keep going onward. Luckily they said yes so I hopped in and climbed out the other side, waved back to the two in the truck and headed to Nautholsvik.

The Geothermal Beach was a crescent of golden sand among the grass and sidewalks. It had a locker room, a geothermal hot tub, and a portion of the Atlantic Ocean roped off for swimming. A pier flanked one side of the beach, and I walked to the end of it where there was an observation deck of sorts.

I watched locals and tourists alike enjoying the hot tub, then running into the ocean to cool off, before getting back into the naturally heated water. The experience looked very relaxing and the beach was beautiful; I was kicking myself for leaving my swimsuit back in my luggage back at the hotel. I did take of my shoes and wade into the ocean a bit, as a consolation prize.

The walk back to the hotel was equally as ugly as the walk to Perlan; this time I walked past the domestic airport and a lot of road construction. Don’t let this deter you from going though, there is a bus from downtown that goes out to Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach (Bus #5) and it really is worth a visit.

Have you ever been to either of these attractions? What’s on your must see list for Iceland?

First AirBnB Experience in Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

My First AirBnB Experience

On September 25, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel1 Comment

I had always been a little bit wary of AirBnB, mostly because of stories I’ve heard from friends or read online. It seemed to me that people either loved it or hated it. However, when I started planning my trip to Iceland, the prices for hotels were a little high for my budget. This coupled with the fact that I was traveling solo and wanted to meet people along the way led me to try AirBnB for the first time. I signed up and started perusing the options, instantly taking a liking to a private room that had glowing reviews and AirBnB Superhost badge. The location was pretty good too, situated in a neighborhood close to the main Grayline Bus Terminal and a short bus ride from downtown Reykjavik. Before I booked, I chatted with the host, Hulda, through email and instantly felt comfortable enough to go through with the booking.

Flash forward to a couple weeks before I was due to take off, I was panicking a bit because my flight arrived in Iceland at 7am and I wasn’t sure what I should do between then and check in time. The Blue Lagoon, a typical stop between the airport and Reykjavik, just wasn’t in my budget. I emailed Hulda and asked if it would be possible to drop my luggage off early and what time would be too early. She promptly answered yes, drop it off whenever. Not only was this a huge relief, but it also opened up more time for me to explore Reykjavik.

I arrived at the Grayline Bus Terminal after a 45 minute ride from Keflavik airport, and it was an easy 10 minute walk from there to my AirBnB. Hulda and her husband, Gustav, both greeted me at the door and cheerfully ushered me into their apartment, asking me about the flight and leading me to my room. Hulda showed me where to towels were, the drawer full of Iceland tourism brochures and maps, how to work the shower and the empty drawer in the fridge I could use for groceries if I wanted. She asked what my plans were for the day and then offered to drive me downtown since she had to run errands that way anyways. I gladly accepted and off we went.

Hulda narrated the points of interest as we went, pointing out Mount Esja looming beyond the bay, the sun voyager and Harpa Music Hall. She dropped me off at one end of the pedestrian street, and told me where I could catch the bus back to the apartment.

When I returned that evening, they helped me find a place near the apartment for dinner and drew me a map to get there and back. After dinner, I sat with them in their living room and had a wonderful conversation about travel and Iceland and just life in general. They were both so helpful, especially when giving me advice about what tourist attractions are worth it and which were fine to skip.

Because I was exhausted and the bed was so, so comfy, I woke up embarrassingly late. Even so, I was offered coffee and toast to go with the skyr (Icelandic Yogurt) I had got the night before from a grocery store. Hulda and Gustav offered to drive me over to Mount Esja that day, because they were headed out that way anyways, so as soon as I finished eating, I changed into my hiking gear and we got going. Again, they pointed out landmarks and Hulda talked a bit about her childhood, as this was the area where she grew up. When they dropped me off at the park, they made sure to tell me which buses to take to get back. That afternoon, they helped me plan out my activities for the rest of the night and mapped them out for me. By this point, I was feeling pretty spoiled to have such wonderful and caring hosts.

The next morning, before I checked out to move on to my next accommodations, I sat down with Hulda for breakfast and chatted for a while. It seemed like we were old friends already, talking about everything and nothing. I really lucked out to have her and Gustav for hosts; they were so kind and helpful and hospitable. I am so glad I got to start off my time in Iceland with them. I went into this not knowing what to expect and just hoping for the best, and after I checked out, I couldn’t imagine starting the trip off any other way.

If you find yourself planning a trip to Reykjavik and you’re looking for a place to stay, I would absolutely recommend checking out their private room with AirBnB!

A very big thank you to Hulda and Gustav for making me feel perfectly at home and for all their help and hospitality!

Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland

On September 20, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel3 Comments

Mount Esja, which can be seen in the background of Reykjavik in most photos, is just a quick hop, skip and jump from downtown. I was very lucky to have such amazing AirBnb hosts that drove me there on their way to a family event. As we got close, Hulda pointed out her old neighborhood, school and stomping grounds; this area was where she grew up.

When they dropped me off in the parking lot, they explained how I would get back and were off. When I reached the trail head, I made my best guess as to which trail was the scenic route to the top, as the sign was in Icelandic.

I chose a path to my right and walked happily along, realizing about a half mile in that I was headed in the opposite direction as the mountain I wanted to be on top of. The walk was beautiful, taking me through fields of wild flowers, wooded areas, and on wobbly bridges over streams.

Eventually I made it to the top of a hill where a couple were taking photos, and I asked them how to get to the top of Mount Esja. They pointed me in the direction from which they came and said I would come to a fork in the trail, which would put me on the right path. While the detour was very pretty, I was happy to be on my way.

The path consisted of loose gravel and was extremely steep, and after each switchback it became even steeper than before. I had to bribe myself with water and bites of cliff bar to keep going. Truth be told, this is probably one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done. The views from each switchback was gorgeous, especially with the sun coming up, reflecting off the lake below and making it look metallic.

There were two paths that went to the top, and I chose to go up the steeper trail and down the longer, more scenic trail. I thought the steeper trail might be quicker, and maybe it was, but it was also pretty rough. The terrain was rocky and a little precarious in places, so much so that I had to move in an awkward crawl, pulling myself up the steep hill with my hands.

When I reached Steinn, the first summit, I stopped for some water and tried to decide if I wanted to keep going. The wind had picked up and the path to the very top looked a little intimidating. I asked a man passing by if it was safe to keep going up with the wind as it was, and he said “Ehhhh yeah, is not so bad.” Then I asked him if it was OK for beginner hikers and he said “Sure it is.”

So I started climbing up. The path was tricky, with multiple paths sprouting from what I thought was the main trail. I saw a climber above me slip, and slide down the gravel until he caught himself on a rock, which was my cue to head back down. I wasn’t confident that my legs, which felt like jelly, wouldn’t betray me and send my clumsy butt tumbling down the mountain.

As I turned to go, I saw the gentleman I was speaking with earlier pass me going up a different path. I waved and kept moving. As soon as I started down the longer path back down to the bottom, I slipped on the gravel and fell right on my ass, scraping my hands on the way down. I brushed myself off and kept moving, glaring at the super humans that were actually jogging past me like it was a high school track and not a rocky slip’n’slide.

The scenery was so beautiful that I felt like I had accidentally walked onto a movie set. There was a creek that ran along the path that was crossed a couple of times along the way over the most picturesque bridges and stepping stones. I really couldn’t believe how stunning the view was, which was probably why I kept tripping over my feet.

The last 15 minutes of my hike were probably the most tiring, a feeling that was made worse by the sight of the bus back downtown pulling out of the parking lot as I was getting so close to the ground. The next one was an hour and a half away, so I stopped into the café at the bottom of the mountain for a late lunch. Esjustofa Restaurant opens daily at 11:00am and serves soups, sandwiches, pizza and beverages. I got a sandwich and a latte and settled in to write for a bit. The food was typical café fare, but the guy behind the counter was very kind and helpful.

I caught the #57 bus to a bus terminal closer to downtown, and then the #12 bus back to the Airbnb (which can also be taken to downtown Reykjavik). When I got back, Hulda explained that it was probably good that I didn’t hike to the top because a few people fall down the mountain and break a couple bones each year. So I guess I made the right decision! Mount Esja was a wonderful, beautiful, challenging hike, and, with its close proximity to the city, it is a perfect day trip from Reykjavik. Here are a couple of tips if you choose to visit Mount Esja:

Bring plenty of water and a snack, you will need it
Wear good hiking boots or gym shoes and warm clothes
Bring a hat that will cover your ears and fight the wind
Enjoy the scenery! But maybe stop walking to do so
It’s okay to only make it up to Steinn, most people turn around there too

Have you ever hiked in Iceland? Where’s your favorite hiking spot there?

Budget-Friendly Ways to Indulge Your Wanderlust, RebeccaWanderlusting

Exploring Reykjavik

On September 18, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel8 Comments

I landed in Iceland at 7:00am after a restless flight, so I was tired and a little bit crabby when I found the Grayline Bus that would take me into Reykjavik. But, by the time it arrived into the main station (just outside the city) the surrounding scenery had roused me out of my half-conscious; my first impression of the impressively beautiful country did not disappoint.

The main station was very close to where I was staying, in an AirBnB. I had to walk along a highway to get there and cross into a neighborhood that housed the apartment where I would be staying, Mount Esja looming behind me the whole walk. My hosts very graciously allowed me to drop off my bags well before check in time, and then, going above and beyond their hosting duties, drove me downtown so that I could start exploring.

My host, Hulda, pointed out where I would catch the bus back to their apartment and dropped me off at one end of the pedestrian walkway, where I started walking with no real direction in mind. The streets in Reykjavik are pretty easy to navigate once you get the hang of it, and most of the shops and restaurants are on two main strips. Because it was so early when I arrived, not many places were open quite yet, so I strolled and window shopped.

Café Paris was one of the few places that were open, so I jumped at the chance for some breakfast and went in. It was a seat yourself kind of place so I sat and ordered a latte and a croissant with ham and cheese and jam when prompted. The café, turned bar in the evening, was cute and relaxed in the way that all European cafes seem to be. The food was good, and they served Illy espresso, which is my favorite so I was a happy camper.

From Café Paris, I walked over to the harbor to see the Harpa music hall and the Sun Voyager. This walk along the coast was so peaceful and gorgeous. I think it was at this moment, being next to the sea, walking in the sunshine that I felt like I had made it, and I was so happy to be in Iceland. The Sun Voyager, which was swamped with tourist hopping of buses to take a picture with the famous statue, had a beautiful view behind it, with the ocean in the forefront and the mountains beyond.

Back towards the downtown area was the Kolaportid Flea Market, which is only open on the weekends. The market was certainly interesting to walk through, though I didn’t buy anything. It’s funny how the kitschy gifts and antiques differ from country to country. This market has a little bit of everything, from the itchy wool lopapeysa sweaters to books and records to antiques to classic Icelandic cuisine. It was a lively place to be, with locals and tourists alike browsing through the stalls.

I decided to walk over to the famous church in Reykjavik, Hallgrimskirkja, to see the view from the top. The church is at the top of the pedestrian walkway. Outside, the church is architecturally beautiful, and inside it is stunning, especially the huge, gilded organ on the wall above the entry.

The ticket to go up to the top of the church is $8, and well worth it for the views. After taking a small (6 person max) elevator to the 8^th floor, you have a 360 degree view of the city, which can be seen from the church windows, while standing on a step stool for a better vantage point.

Once I left the church, it started raining, which it did on and off for the rest of the day, so I dodged in and out of shops and restaurants along the pedestrian street. Many of the stores along this popular street are adorable, but very expensive so I didn’t end up purchasing anything. I did love the beautiful clothing at Geysir, the cute designs at Aurum and the charming home goods and accessories at Hrím Hönnunarhús. I popped into Svarta Kaffid, a restaurant that serves only soup in bread bowls and drinks to go with it.

This hearty meal was exactly what I needed after being out in the cold, wet weather. It was a small, cozy restaurant with Icelandic beer on tap, and I was happy to settle in for a bit to try and wait out the rain. It eventually cleared up and I headed over to the Iceland Culture House Museum which was free to enter and offered a unique look into Icelandic art and history.

It wasn’t very crowded, so I was free to take in the exhibits at a leisurely pace. The general theme was how Icelandic Artists interpret their country’s history in various mediums. I really enjoyed visiting this museum! At this point, jet lag set in hard, so I found a convenience store, where I purchased a ten ride pass for the bus (a decision I later regretted – such an unnecessary expense).

I took the bus back to my Airbnb, a 15 minute ride outside of downtown, and took it easy for the rest of the day. Reykjavik is such an easy city to fall in love with; it’s walkable, easy to navigate, and cute and colorful. After one day of exploring, I was already smitten.

Have you ever been to Reykjavik? Which city attraction was your favorite?

A Quick Euro Trip Recap

On September 13, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Trip PlanningLeave a comment

Hi all!

I’m back in the states after ten days of being in Iceland and Denmark and doing my best to keep the jet lag monster at bay with copious amounts of coffee. This trip was amazing, life-changing even, and I’m happy and proud to have been able to do it on my own. It’s always a great feeling to come home from a trip that met and exceeded all of your expectations.

Though there were some bumps in the road (oh hi spending $40 on bus passes I gave away at the end of the trip and drunk man who tried to grab me on the street in Reykjavik!), I had a wonderful time in both countries and wouldn’t trade my experiences for anything.

In my packing list and budget, I promised a trip recap on both accounts. As for the packing list, I wore everything I packed at least once (mostly more than once) . The Packing MVP award goes to the Shout Stain Remover Wipes for saving me from a coffee spill disaster and my Mophie mobile phone battery! I could have done without the towel I brought, everywhere I would have needed it provided towels for me.

As far as the budget is concerned, I under spent by about $200, which was far better than I was expecting! Both countries are very expensive, Iceland more so than Denmark. To compensate for this, I didn’t drink much in Iceland, and when I did, I took advantage of the many Happy Hours there. The Copenhagen Card that I prepaid for got me into many of the museums and attractions there, so that helped me stay in my budget too. I didn’t buy many souvenirs, only a couple of things for my family and Mike.

I’ll be posting more about both of these amazing destinations in the very near future, but until then, here are a few of my favorite photos from this trip:

Stay tuned for more details and photos from Iceland and Copenhagen!

Day Trips from Jordan by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

Jordan Day Trips to Petra and Wadi Rum

On June 1, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan2 Comments

The following guide to Jordan Day Trips is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

We had one more big event planned for our time in Jordan and that was a visit to the Southern part of the country, to Petra and Wadi Rum. Petra is an ancient city built into the red rock faces of the desert. It is hailed as one of the wonders of archaeology and had been hidden to the outside world until 1812. The drive to Petra from Amman took about 3.5 hours. We didn’t have as much time as the visit deserves so we took a donkey carriage from the entrance to the treasury, the first major site of the city. I would love to one day walk the trail (instead of ride a carriage) as one of the most beautiful elements of the site is the cavernous walls that border the path to the city. It feels like you’re approaching something out of an Indiana Jones movie, suddenly you round a corner and the treasury peeks through the rocks. The city is huge. If you’re adventurous you’ll want to take the hike up to the monastery (and allow extra time, the way up takes about 40 minutes), but others will get just as much of a kick from walking through ancient tombs and amongst old houses. The Bedouin people used to control Petra but were moved by the government in the 80s. They still live nearby and control pretty much all tourist amenities inside the site including camel rides, coffee stands, and tours. Since it was the off season and we were with Zara they often stopped asking if we wanted a “Bedouin Taxi” or camel ride after one or two tries and then just hung out with us while we explored. One man, Eagle of the Desert, as he introduced himself to us, showed us how Bedouin women used to wear makeup from the walls of the rocks and waxed poetic on the beauties of the desert and Bedouin tea. He was an exceptional part of our visit to Petra.

When the sun started to go down we got back to our car and made our way to Wadi Rum, the expansive desert in the southern part of the country. Wadi Rum has long been the subject of literature and artists, most recently it was featured as the landscape for Mars in the movie The Martian. The drive to our camp from Petra was about 2 hours long so we arrived well past dark. It was like driving through outer space, every once in a while being able to make out the outline of a massive rock formation in the moonlight. Bedouins live throughout Wadi Rum and run camps for tourists to stay in. These range from luxurious, queen-sized bed and indoor plumbing, to rugged, sleeping on the floor and outdoor toilets. Upon arrival we ate an absurd amount of food once again and retired to bed early after some incredible star-gazing as we had planned a sunrise adventure into the desert.

At 5am we met our tour guide, a local Bedouin man with kind eyes and a calm demeanor. We hopped in the back of his pick-up truck and he drove us to the perfect place to watch the sunrise over the alien landscape. It was like nothing I had ever seen in my life. That morning was one of my favorite moments of the trip. It was peaceful and endless. The eye never had the chance to rest, always taking in more and more different spectacles. Our guide drove us from secret site to site, from friend’s camps to the place where the famed Lawrence of Arabia had once sat. Also if you’re looking to ride a camel, Wadi Rum is the place to do it. The Bedouins are expert camel owners so you can rest easy knowing these animals probably have a pretty good life out there. It’s about 5 dinar for a 2 minute ride which may seem steep but to be honest that is probably the maximum amount of time you want to spend on a camel. They are not the most comfortable beast. We had tea at two different Bedouin camps, the most delicious, sweet tea made even better the fact that it was positively freezing in the back of that truck.

If you go anytime that isn’t the middle of July, be sure to bring warm, warm clothes to wear. Bring more than you think. Desert cold is bone rattling. And be sure to bring some sort of lotion and sunscreen, by the end our wind-chapped faces where pink and dry, but very smiley. It was one of the most incredible mornings of my life full of exploration, wonder, and humility. Meeting the Bedouins who call the desert home reminds you of what is most beautiful about this life and this earth. They hold the utmost respect for their home, our guide spoke often about how much love he held in his heart for the desert. He knew how to read the sand and the sky and understood what the land was telling him. He was so considerate he seemed almost otherworldly. He wanted to help us see what was most beautiful about his home and why we needed to protect it. Every Bedouin I met was kind and engaging regardless of a language barrier. The tour of the desert took half the day, we arrived back at the camp at noon, had some lunch and returned to Amman, a 4 hour drive.

To read more about Gracie’s travels in Jordan, click here and here.

2016: A Year in Review, RebeccaWanderlusting

Amman Day Trips

On May 24, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan1 Comment

The following Amman Day Trips guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

After thoroughly exploring Amman, you may feel the need to get out and explore more of the country. Jerash is about a 45 minute drive north of the city and it is worth every minute and more. Often called the Pompeii of the East, Jerash is a must-see for anyone with even the slightest interest in history. It is awe-inducing in size and preservation. Walking down the main street you practically hear the Roman vendors and merchants arguing about prices and sales. You can walk through the temple of Zeus and sit on the steps of the temple of Artemis. The best part about it is that it’s so big that you can often wander for a few moments without seeing another person, completely losing yourself in the process. The amphitheater is the most incredible part of it all. It stands in near perfect condition, its height daunting and causing legs to wobble at the top. Sometimes a group of musicians waits inside to serenade you with a song and to show you where to stand to get your voice to echo throughout the entire stadium. You will most likely encounter some men waiting inside for tourists to tell you a few facts or show you around for a second in exchange for a few dinars. Some of these guys have worthwhile facts, like the guy who will show you the hollow pillar that echoes when hit in just the right spot, but others may just be trying to sell you something. Keep your wits about you and you’ve got nothing to worry about, they won’t pester you if you politely say no. Jerash is like traveling back in time for a day, so plan for plenty of hours to spend back in the 2nd century.

Another day trip that would probably take about half the time of Jerash is a visit to Madaba. Only about 45 minutes away from Amman, Madaba is like a laid-back brother to the capital city. It is home to St. George’s Church which houses the oldest map of Palestine known to us today. The ancient mosaic was uncovered when the church was renovated, so the church itself isn’t ancient, but the mosaic is a special surprise. Madaba also has Mt. Nebo, the place where Moses was supposedly shown the Holy Land. On a clear day you can see Jerusalem from the top and a stunning view of neighboring Palestine. After seeing the sites be sure to stop at Haret Jdoudna for a life-changing meal. The restaurant is a legendary family-owned business housed in a restored 20th century Madaba house and it is almost as if you can taste the hard work and history in the food. Madaba will only take about half of your day so if you have the time it’s a great quick trip to get away from the noise of Amman.

Another day trip from the city worth your while is Bethany, or the Baptism site of Jesus Christ, yes that Jesus. This site even counts Pope Francis as one of its most recent visitors. I’m not and never have been a religious person, but I am an art history scholar and visiting the actual land that the names and faces I’ve come to know through endless art and scripture was inspiring. The baptism site on the Jordanian side of the River Jordan is a humble set of stairs leading into a reservoir fed by the river. You cannot go in the exact site but you can baptize yourself in the nearby river a few steps away. It is a beautiful and calming experience to feel the muddy ground of the river and feel the cold water. You also get a view of the Palestinian side of the river, now controlled by Israel and a brand new, very big tourist center. In my opinion, it took away from the experience to be so detached from the earth at the spot, I was glad to be on the side of the river where grass and water still rushed past your feet, not wet concrete. It is a good idea to dress respectfully and mindfully, and, if you’re a woman, perhaps wear a swimsuit under your baptism dress if you want to actually go into the water (as opposed to undergarments). You are lead through the site in groups that leave from a designated parking area and guided around the many paths that make up the area. Our visit didn’t take very long but it was a valuable experience and sure to be extremely moving if you are religious or interested in history. To think of how much the Christian faith and the figure of Jesus has affected our world since his time is overwhelming. Everything from wars and assassinations, the formation and destruction of empires and people, and hopefully a wide-spread message of love and acceptance has been influenced by the name of this one man who once walked the same land you can now walk today. It’s definitely a special experience regardless of faith (word to wise about the souvenir shop there, the prices are very high. You can likely find similar objects in a souvenir shop in Amman for much less).

From the baptism site we went to spend the evening at the Dead Sea. We visited Jordan in the winter so we had planned our time to only be an evening, but if I were to visit in the summer I would love to luxuriate there for as long as a week. To drive from the baptism site to the Marriott at the Dead Sea only took us about 30 minutes. We purchased a pass from the front entrance of the hotel for about 40 dinars each since it was off-season for access to the beach and pool for the day. We each changed into our suit in the hotel bathroom, as Caroline and I were determined to go in the sea despite the chilly weather and cloudy skies. It was definitely not what I had pictured in my mind when I envisioned going the Dead Sea, namely missing the ungodly sunny skies and tropical drinks with umbrellas in them, and maybe some reggaeton playing somewhere. But I wouldn’t trade anything for the experience we got. We began our walk down the path to the beach which was absolutely deserted. If Zara was any evidence, no Jordanian in their right mind wants to go into the Dead Sea in January (even though it was only 60 degrees! Practically tropical compared to the weather back home in Chicago). After covering ourselves in Dead Sea mud from giant clay pots on the shore we eventually convinced Zara to join us in the water, which was surprisingly warm and comfortable. A word of warning: it is nearly impossible to look graceful while walking into the Dead Sea. The shoreline is all small rocks with crystallized salt covering them. This, as you can imagine, is not the most pleasing thing to walk barefoot across, but it is worth it for the weightless feeling one gets when floating in that sea. I’ve never felt anything quite like it! It was even hard to swim properly because you cannot hold your legs down, everything just floats right to the top. Be very careful not to get any water in your eyes or mouth, the stinging sensation is very real and the taste is absolutely disgusting. After getting used to the floating sensation it is possible to take your phone or camera in the water to get some unreal and jealousy-inducing selfies. It is also wonderful to just float for a while unimpeded and let everything slip away.

It was near sunset by the time we got in the water. Despite being cloudy all day long, the sun came out for the last 20 minutes of its time in the sky and absolutely blew us away. It was just the three of us in the water and an adorable Jordanian beach attendant down on the shore. We felt like the only people in the whole sea and the only people experiencing this incredible sight. Technically you can’t stay down on the beach past sunset but it was so beautiful and we were begging our new friend to please, please let us have 5 more minutes. After we finally went with him back up the steps, he had had his friend/coworker bring around a golf cart to take us back up to the showers and hotel (it will definitely be necessary to shower after the sea, that much salt doesn’t feel too great once dry and you might not have gotten all the mud off). We chatted with him on the way up and he said what so many of the wonderful people I had met so far said before him, that he was so excited that we were American and we were visiting and enjoying Jordan. He wanted to be sure we had an incredible time and that we would be able to tell everyone back home how special this place is. I often think about all the amazing individuals who helped us in our journey and try to tell as many people as I can that my favorite part about the trip was meeting these people with such generous hearts. The hotel has plenty of lounge space for a post-swim drink and supper. After that we threw our sleepy selves in the car and headed back to Amman, about 1.5 hours away.

An Amman Travel Guide

On May 21, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan1 Comment

The following brilliant travel guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

My memories of Jordan are steeped in pale sunlight and the smell of fresh mint, in salt crystals and shisha smoke escaping through windows. I was lucky enough to wake up one January morning and find myself in a sprawling city of sandy colored houses and minarets marking the seven hills that make up Amman, the capital city of Jordan. The stories you hear of Arab hospitality are not myth. Everywhere I went I was welcomed with open arms and a desire to share an ancient culture. I left with that same desire instilled in me, to share the culture of a people so often misunderstood in the west. These people are grouped together under one brusque stereotype, when in reality there are millions of nuanced beauties of Jordanian and Arab culture. I found myself in Jordan because it is the home of one of my good friends and former college roommate. Zara and I met when we were both bright-faced freshman in our dorm at Boston University. Ever since then, Zara has been urging me to come and visit her in Jordan. As an early graduation gift, another good friend, Caroline, and I took the 5,000 mile journey across the ocean to finally open our minds and hearts to the culture that we had heard so much about for the past 4 years.

For those who are surprised that I took a vacation to the Middle East, let me just say that I never felt unsafe in all my time in Jordan. Jordan is a country surrounded by conflict. Its neighbors to the west, Palestine and Israel, have been fighting for more than 60 years in a war that has no end in sight, a war that causes sorrow on both sides and for thousands around the world. To the east lies Iraq, another land that has not known the definition of peace for many years. Jordan’s northern neighbor is the most well-known in today’s news, Syria. Hundreds of Syrians stream across the border every day to seek the protection of Jordan’s sturdy bones, escaping a number of tragedies including relentless bombings by a corrupt government, impassioned recruitment from militant groups, and misguided foreign intervention. One would think the stability of Jordan would be rocked by its tumultuous neighbors, but there is a strength in the land and the people that impresses upon any visitor. I encourage everyone who has a passion for experiencing foreign cultures and exploring a new land to visit.

My non-stop flight from Chicago O’Hare on Royal Jordanian landed around 5 pm in Amman after 16 hours in the air. Upon our arrival, we set out with Zara to do what we would spend approximately 70% of our time in Jordan doing: eating. Amman is bursting with beautiful restaurants and delicious meals to be had. One of my favorites was on our first morning. We visited a falafel shop in the heart of downtown Amman, Falafel Hashem. It was filled with families with young children, teenagers probably playing hooky from school, and everyone in between. The falafel was unreal, the hummus and mint tea soothing to a weary traveler. It is a must-stop in Amman, a real local spot with extremely reasonable prices, a laid back atmosphere and outdoor seating. For dessert we went around the corner and got knafeh from Habiba sweets. Also located in the heart of downtown through a side alley, Habiba always has a line of hungry Jordanians snaking around the door, waiting to get their hands on the sugar-soaked cheese pastry. I fell madly in love with knafeh. I would eat it every day for the rest of my life if possible, but I know it will never taste as good as that first bite in an alley in Amman.

There is no shortage of things to do in Amman. The easiest way to get around is by car. Taxis are cheap and there is even a branch of Uber in the city, but it’s best to get a local to take you around or hire a car. The streets are narrow and winding up and over the hills but relatively easy to navigate on foot. One of the main tourist areas is Rainbow Street, which is also a favorite of locals. It’s filled with shops for anything from souvenirs to household goods. I popped into a random hardware store to find some Arabic coffee makers for a cheaper price than I would get at a tourist store. There’s a beautiful glassware shop that has some pretty good sales on small tea glasses, great souvenirs if you’re confident in your wrapping and packing ability. If the shopping tires you out stop in to Turtlegreen for some free WiFi and wide variety of tea blends (and some cute pet turtles!). Just off of Rainbow Street is one of my favorite places in Amman, Books@cafe. The downstairs area of this space is a bookstore selling both Arab and English books, new and used. Climb the stairs and you’re transported to a trendy cafe with tons of enticing menu choices that include Arab and Western specialties. Sit down with a book and enjoy shisha, coffee, tea, beer (Carakale is Jordan’s first micro brew) or wine. Plenty of young Jordanians are scattered around every corner of the lounge. In the summer there’s a great terrace with a sneaky view of the city.

One of the best neighborhoods to wander through is Weibdeh. If you’re traveling alone, it is safe to walk through without much precaution and has a burgeoning scene of cool shops and restaurants. It is the so-called Brooklyn of Amman. Start at Rakwet Arab cafe for a delicious breakfast of manakish, an Arab version of pizza often topped with fresh cheese or za’atar (or both!), and Arab coffee. The inside of this cafe is cozy and nostalgic with old photos from Lebanon and Jordan hanging on the walls and a number of crumpled magazines on shelves. After lazing through a meal, wander the streets and find yourself at Darat al-Funun Gallery. This inspiring gallery is located in an old, spacious house and hosts exhibits of numerous Arab artists. When we arrived, the gallery was mostly closed in preparation for an upcoming show, but we ran into a groundskeeper who proudly showed us around every nook and cranny of the space. He spoke only Arabic, but we were lucky enough to have Zara with us to translate. It is my sincere belief that even if it was just Caroline and I, two white Americans, the man would have shown us around and given us the same tour. His pride in the work done at Darat al Funun was evident even through a language barrier. He hailed from Nablus, Palestine and showed us the beautiful work he had done in decorating one of the rooms in traditional Nablus style. There is a ruined Byzantine church on the grounds and seemingly endless flow of beautiful gardens draping down the hill. A cafe located on one of the terraces overlooks the city, stop here for some freshly squeezed orange juice or a cup of rose water tea and wait for the call to prayer to echo through the hills from every mosque in the city. It is not hard to find peace in this place.

After a mindful respite from the bustle of the city, head back out for some shopping. Jobedu has a shop in Weibdeh selling shirts and knickknacks with references to Arab pop culture. Pick up an Um Kalthoum “Habibi” sweatshirt for your collection and support local artists in doing so. Hop in a cab and continue your shopping on the neighboring hill at Wild Jordan, the home of the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. The newly renovated building has a cafe, an information center for planning nature excursions all over the country, and a shop promoting local artisans. It also has a great view of the city and the Citadel. The Amman Citadel is a collection of ruins on top of the central hill of Amman from numerous cultures that held power over the city throughout the years. There is also a great, yet tiny, museum on the top that holds archaeological relics from our oldest prehistoric ancestors all the way to the Umayyad’s. The Roman Amphitheater is also worth a visit, although if you are planning to make your way to Jerash (which you should) then you might be able to skip it. A few other places in Amman that are worth a visit include:

–Dar al-Anda – almost next door to Darat al Funun, this gallery also specializes in contemporary Arab artists.

–Nabad art gallery – another gallery space down the street from Wild Jordan. It’s peaceful courtyard provides a place to breathe away from the city, if only for a second.

–Shams el Balad – a beautiful cafe with amazing Turkish coffee and unique takes on traditional Arab food. Try the knafeh cheesecake cup!

–The Soap House – If you’re looking for high-quality, uniquely scented, Dead Sea products to bring home, this hidden spot is just the place. Down a hill off of Rainbow Street this special spot might be a bit of a hunt but it’s worth it. The salt scrubs make your skin softer than you’ve ever felt it before, and it’s not sky-high pricing.

–Bazar Alibaba Cave – if, like me, your favorite souvenirs are old antiques, then this minuscule shop is for you. The owner speaks a bit of English and is willing to bargain. His shop is a wonderland of old patches, stone and ceramic trinkets, and remnants from wars and Jordan’s history. This spot is located right downtown and if you’re not looking you’ll miss it. Look them up on Facebook for a rough address.

Any words I write here truly cannot do this place justice. My trip was blessed with good luck, a local friend, and beautiful people. But regardless of if you know someone in Jordan or not I believe that if you’re open and adventurous some of the people you meet there could become your last-minute guide and lifelong friends. It is a culture that longs to be shared with others, especially those who are unfamiliar with it. I left Jordan with an inspired mind and a full heart. I’m hoping that my stories have lit a fire that won’t be satisfied until you feel the Jordanian sun on your face. Yalla, let’s go.

Wanderlust Wednesday: Isle of Skye, Scotland

On March 23, 2016March 24, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Wanderlust WednesdayLeave a comment

Happy Wanderlust Wednesday! As stated in this past post, I wanted to start talking about places I want to go to along with the places that I’ve been. It seems that idea was a good one from the response I got from that post so here we go! This time around I’m talking about Isle of Sky, Scotland. Scotland has been on my list since I studied abroad in London in 2010, and missed the chance to do a weekend trip there (I went to Ireland instead). This beautiful, lush, green land of legends and mythical creatures is calling my name. The whole country is beautiful, and Isle of Skye seems like epitome of that beauty. While I don’t have any immediate plans to travel there, I would jump at the chance to jet off to the Isle of Skye.

What I would want to see and do:

The Fairy Pools and Fairy Fields – too magical to resist
Dunvegan Castle – the oldest, still lived-in castle in Scotland
The Old Man of Storr – a beautiful rocky outcropping that looks like something out of Game of Thrones
The Waterfalls – oh, all the gorgeous waterfalls in all their mythical glory
Hike the hills and spot some sheep
Kayak in the beautiful, turquoise sea
Walk the streets of Portree
Photo Courtesy of IsleofSkye.com

What I would want to eat:

The freshest seafood, sitting at a table overlooking the ocean
Haggis – the Scottish delicacy, that I can’t promise that I’ll enjoy, but I will certainly try it anyways
Shortbread and tea
Fish and chips – a UK favorite
The traditional full Scottish Breakfast

Where I would stay:

The Broadford Hotel – for it’s stunning views and classy bedrooms.
The Ben Tianavaig Bed & Brekafast – for it’s charm and undeniable appeal.
The Flodigarry Hotel – again, gorgeous views, and posh, old-timey decor to boot.

When I would go:

In the late springtime, when the wildflowers are blooming and the weather is mild. There will be less tourists and maybe a little more rain, but what’s a little rain in the land of rainbows?

How I would get there:

Travelling from Chicago, I would need to fly out of O’Hare International Airport into Inverness, Scotland and take a bus or rent a car to get to the Isle of Skye.

Helpful Isle of Skye Blogs:

A Dangerous Business – “The Isle of Skye: Still My Favorite part of Scotland“
Adventurous Kate – “On a Skye High in Scotland”
Hand Luggage Only – “The Complete Guide to Travelling Across the Highlands of Scotland“
Sugar and Soul – “Scotland – Isle of Skye”
Photo Courtesy of IsleofSkye.com

What do you think? Are you falling in love with The Isle of Skye like I am? Or, if you have been there, what was your favorite part of The Isle of Skye? Do you have any tips for what to do or where to stay?

The following guide to Jordan Day Trips is brought to you by Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

The following Amman Day Trips guide is brought to you by Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

The following brilliant travel guide is brought to you by Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

The following guide to Jordan Day Trips is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

The following Amman Day Trips guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

The following brilliant travel guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl