Solo Trip Snapshots

On September 5, 2017 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, Iceland, International Travel2 Comments

It has officially been a year since my solo trip to Iceland and Copenhagen, Denmark, and I’m still in awe of the scenery in both countries. This trip meant a lot to me, as it was the longest I had ever taken by myself. I think it might be cliche to say that I learned a lot about myself on this trip, that it was life changing, but I’ll say it anyways. It would be hard not to visit two completely new-to-me countries and come back unchanged, especially when the countries are that beautiful. Plus traveling alone is always such an empowering experience. I returned from this trip with a little more confidence, perspective and of course the need to book more trips immediately. Now, a year later, I have some more exciting travels planned for the near future, and I’m feeling nostalgic for one of my favorite trips ever. So, without further ado, here are my favorite solo trip snapshots from my trip to Iceland and Copenhagen:

I’ll start with Iceland, the most beautiful country I have ever been to.

My favorite things about Iceland were the waterfalls along the South Coast, hiking Mount Esja, the street art, the people, the hot dogs, the whale watching tours, Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach, Reykjanes Peninsula, and the Black Sand Beach. I don’t think I will ever see such amazing, diverse, and breath-taking scenery again (unless I go back).

In Copenhagen, I was in love with the pace of life, the wine and lattes at outdoor tables in beautiful squares with fountains in the middle. I loved the boat tour along the canal, drinking and reading at Paludan Cafe, playing at Tivoli Gardens, exploring the Norrebro Neighborhood, the museums, the shops… I could go on all day. It is such a beautiful and unique city, and I’m so happy I chose to visit.

Please share your own solo trip snapshots in the comments; I’d love to see them!

Copenhagen Card, Copenhagen, Denmark, RebeccaWanderlusting

Copenhagen Card: Worth It or Not?

On December 28, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International TravelLeave a comment

On my recent trip to Copenhagen, I decided to invest in the Copenhagen Card, a city pass that included many attractions and museums. In my original planning for the trip, I thought the card would be an invaluable asset to exploring the city. Plus, the fact that it might save me some money on this tightly budgeted adventure didn’t hurt!

In addition to covering the entry fee for many museums, tours and palaces, the Copenhagen Card also works as a public transportation pass and includes discounts to restaurants and attractions that aren’t included in the card. I ordered my city pass through the website, and opted to pick it up from the visitor center once I arrived in the city, saving the $8 shipping fee.

In total, the seventy-two hour Copenhagen Card cost $89, which I thought I would easily earn back, and then some, with all I wanted to accomplish there. Though I had very high hopes, it turned out to be kind of a daunting task. I had three full days in the city, and wound up going to 2 museums (one, the Copenhagen Contemporary, was not included in the card), 2 palaces, the Round Tower (I visited twice because it was the best place in the city to see the sunset), Tivoli Gardens (the Copenhagen Card only covered the entry fee, the rides and food inside the park was extra), and going on the canal boat tour.

These attractions, combined with the exploring on foot and enjoying the cafes and architecture, completely filled my time in Copenhagen. Here is the breakdown of the attractions I entered using my Copenhagen Card for and their actual entry fees:

The Canal Boat Tour: 80Dkk ($11.25)
Tivoli Gardens: 150Dkk ($21.10)
SMK Art Museum: 145Dkk ($20.40)
Round Tower (twice): 50Dkk ($7)
Amalienborg Palace: 75Dkk ($10.55)
Christianborg Palace Ruins: 50Dkk ($7)
Christianborg Palace Reception Rooms: 90Dkk ($12.66)
Bus to Norrebro: 24Dkk ($3.38)

Total: $93.34

So, was it worth it? Financially, yes, just barely. And it was awfully convenient to use the Copenhagen Card to get in everywhere and to get on the public transportation. Though I could have taken advantage of the public transportation more, I should have taken into consideration how much I would want to walk around.

There were also a couple of attractions that were included that I wish I could have seen, like Frederiksborg Castle, The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, and The National Museum. The truth of it is, I felt like having the Copenhagen Card put a lot of pressure on me to run around and do as much as possible.

Instead of giving into the pressure, I did the opposite, and spent a lot of my time in Copenhagen aimlessly wandering and exploring the beautiful streets and neighborhoods. The end result was a really great trip, tinged with a small amount of guilt that I didn’t do/see enough. Overall, Copenhagen was an amazing city to visit, and I’ll just have to see the things I missed the next time around.

Have you had any experiences with city passes like the Copenhagen Card? Did the end up being useful, or a hindrance?

Christianborg Palace, Copenhagen, Denmark, RebeccaWanderlusting

Last Night in Copenhagen

On November 27, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel3 Comments

My last night in Copenhagen encompassed everything that I loved about this beautiful city. I visited one of the historic palaces, strolled down the main shopping street, had the best meal of my whole trip, and spent my last couple of krones on a glass of wine enjoyed al fresco.

After a delightful lunch at Atelier September, I walked over to Christianborg Palace via the Royal Library Gardens. The library it’s surrounding gardens were gorgeous, but also swarmed with kids playing Pokemon Go (which had just come to Europe). I walked next door to the palace, which was decidedly less crowded.

Within Christianborg palace, there are a few different areas to explore, all of which were included with my Copenhagen Card. I chose to check out the ruins beneath the palace first, taking the stairs down to view the foundations of castles past. The ruins were a lot larger than I thought they would be, sprawling out beneath the palace with paths weaving through. There were plaques accompanying the landmarks in the ruins and small interactive installments.

To contrast the dark basement of the palace, I went to the reception rooms next, where I donned little blue slipcovers over my shoes to walk around like royalty. The reception rooms were very grand, almost dripping with opulence.

As I wandered from room to room, I seemed to be going at the same pace as another woman, who asked me to take her photo as she shoved her phone in my hands, in each room we entered. She would switch up her poses, then snatch back her phone and walk away. This went on for a few rooms before I had the good sense to skip a couple of rooms and get ahead of her. I couldn’t help but laugh when I passed her again and saw she had roped someone else in to snap some photos as she posed looking pensive on a velvet bench.

My favorite room at Christanborg was the library, of course, but I loved how bright and colorful the whole palace was. After I was done exploring Christianborg, I walked back to my hostel via Stroget, the pedestrian shopping street. I wanted to do some window shopping and browsed along Stroget, and its side streets to look for souvenirs for my family.

After an hour or so of commerce, I sat down at the Victoria Bar in a beautiful square for a cider and some reading. It was another beautiful day in Copenhagen, and I was happy that I got to spend much of it outside. After my drink, I went back to the hostel to rest up and choose a restaurant to go to for dinner.

After reading many glowing reviews and ascertaining that the prices weren’t too crazy, I decided to try Mon Amour, a French restaurant in the Latin Quarter of the city. It was a small, intimate restaurant with a thoughtful menu and a great wine selection. Though the prices were pretty decent, it was still a bit of a splurge for my budget. But it was 100% worth it.

I ordered the Veal Scallopine and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and was extremely happy with my choices. Everything was perfectly cooked and seasoned; I savored each bite. I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Mon Amour, and I have no doubt that if it was located in Chicago, we would visit it frequently.

After dinner, I took one last wander around city. Copenhagen and I had gotten off on the wrong foot when I arrived, but I had truly fallen in love with this city. I stopped at Europa café for a glass of wine, leaving my last krones on the table. Despite the late hour and it being a weeknight, the streets were still bustling with people. I sat there contently, people watching and writing for a while before going back to the hostel.

Street musicians played as I walked, and I thought back to the exhibit I saw at the Copenhagen Contemporary, about the band, the National singing their song “Sorrow” over and over. I was sad I had to leave and there was a line in the song that I kept repeating in my head as I walked: “I don’t wanna get over you, I don’t wanna get over you…”. I wanted to hold onto the feeling that I developed over this trip, keep it in the little pocket in my purse to pull out when I’m sad or frustrated or uninspired. That night, I packed up and went to sleep, satisfied with my trip and (mostly) ready to head home.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen, Denmark, RebeccaWanderlusting

In & Around Nyhavn, Copenhagen

On November 20, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel3 Comments

On my last day in Copenhagen, I started off bright and early to stuff as much in as possible. It seemed like it was only me and the street washers out as I wandered around the city. It was the perfect time to take photos, with the lack of crowds and the misty morning sunshine.

I decided to head to Nyhavn to have breakfast by the water. Boats were tied up along the canal, their sails still down from the night before. I walked up and down the streets that flanked the water, admiring the colorful buildings that lined each side.

I landed at Hyttefadet Pub for breakfast and got the Danish Brunch, which consisted of eggs (pass), bacon, bread, salami, cheese, jam, melon and coffee. At $15, it seemed like a good deal, and the coffee was good, but the food wasn’t really. My favorite thing about this café, and a lot of the other cafes in Copenhagen, is that they put blankets on the backs of the chairs in case you get cold, which adds a coziness to them.

I decided to give in and walk over to the Little Mermaid statue, which was almost a mile away. The walk took me along the water and it was a beautiful day, but there was a crowd of other people enjoying it with me. The walk took me past a bunch of Copenhagen’s finest attractions, including Amalienborg Palace, the Royal Cast Collection, and Gefion Fountain.

The Little Mermaid statue was swamped with people taking photos. I stood with the crowd, took my picture, shrugged, and walked back the way I came. Gefion Fountain held my attention much longer, with its beautiful sculpture of Gefjun, the Norse Goddess of abundance, and the picturesque church behind it.

The fountain was breathtaking, as was the scenery surrounding it, I could have happily sat there by the water all day. Unfortunately, I was low on time, so I moved on to Amalienborg Palace, home of the Danish Royal Family. The center of the Palace was a beautiful square containing a statue of King Frederik V and guards at every entrance. The guards wear black jackets and blue pants, their outfits topped with the same furry black hats as the British guards.

There is a museum in the palace with artifacts from the long history of Danish Royalty that I decided to check out since it was included with my Copenhagen Card. The museum showcased replicas of rooms within the palace filled with items owned by royal families past. My favorite part of the museum was the large glass cabinet of royal jewels, obviously, and would have been very happy to take any of those items home with me.

I wanted to stay to watch the changing of the guards, but it was still thirty minutes away and the crowds were wearing on me. I cut back through the square and walked over to Atelier September to get some lunch and a break from the overbearing throngs of tourists. The trendy café had a limited menu from which I ordered a lemonade and the avocado toast and has a seat by the window.

Natural light filled the room, highlighting the simple, tasteful décor; it was a nice place to hang out for a bit. The atmosphere was very chill, with the owner’s dog (I presume) wandering around, a black and white scruffy pup that I wanted to steal. The food was delightful and gave me just the boost of energy I needed to keep moving.

Stay tuned for the last blog in the Copenhagen series!

Have you spent time in Nyhavn? What did you think of the Little Mermaid statue?

Solo Trip Snapshots, Copenhagen, RebeccaWanderlusting

Evening Adventures in Copenhagen

On November 13, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Torvhallerne in Copenhagen is an outdoor and indoor market that sells everything from homemade beauty products to candy to full meals. I decided to head there for dinner from the SMK National Gallery to try one of the famed Danish open faced sandwiches, the Smørrebrød.

I chose a roast beef one from Hallernes Smørrebrød and went to sit outside in the sunshine to enjoy it. The sandwich had red onions, pickled cauliflower, and pickle pickles on top and it was delicious. It was a beautiful evening so it was nice to be sitting amongst the outdoor stalls with fresh flowers and fruit.

I wandered amongst the stalls after I ate, buying some homemade caramels and drooling over all of the bakeries. The market is a joy to wander through, with different stalls lining two buildings with even more stalls in between the two buildings. The market is beautiful and colorful and a definite must-see in the city, in my humble opinion.

I wanted to spend the evening in the downtown area to explore the cobblestone streets and window shop. Luckily for me, my random wanderings brought me to a bookstore/café I had wanted to check out: Paludan. The café’s walls are lined with color coordinated books, most of them for sale, and an extensive food and beverage menu.

Still full from dinner, I ordered a glass of rose and settled into their upstairs section to read. It was the perfect setting for it. I ended up staying for a couple of glasses of wine and a few chapters, feeling perfectly at home in the beautiful bibliophile’s paradise.

Once I finally left, I continued randomly wandering, admiring the architecture and turning down whatever streets looked appealing. I ran into the Round Tower, which was another attraction included with my Copenhagen Card, so I decided to check it out.

The best part of the Round Tower is the view from the top which is reached by way of the endless slanted, spiral hallway that leads there. It was a dizzying trip, especially after all that wine, but I arrived at the top as the sun was setting (for the second night in a row with a beautiful sunset view).

The platform at the top offered a 360 degree view, showing off the city in red gold light. Sitting on a bench, taking in this beautiful view, I couldn’t believe how lucky I was to be there. On the way down, I popped in the small gallery in the middle of the tower which used to be a library frequented by Hans Christian Andersen, but now features works of art. I bought a beautiful copy of his fairy tales for my niece and went on my way.

I was on the hunt for the perfect sidewalk café to get something sweet and a cup of coffee. After thirty minutes of wandering, I settled on Café Phønix for their perfect view of the fountain in the middle of the square and their chocolate fruit cake.

By the time I was done savoring the cake and coffee, it was full dark, and the street lights lit the way back to my hostel. It was another perfect night in Copenhagen.

What are your favorite solo travel activities?

Norrebro Neighborhood, Copenhagen, Denmark, RebeccaWanderlusting

Exploring the Norrebro Neighborhood

On November 9, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel1 Comment

I had read that the Norrebro Neighborhood was a fun, hip place to explore so I headed there on my second morning in Copenhagen. I took the 6A bus from downtown, which only took about fifteen minutes. When I got off at the stop that Google Maps had instructed me to, I was a little confused. There was nothing around. No shops, no cute cafes, just warehouses and residences.

I popped into a coffee shop for a latte and to take advantage of their free Wi-Fi. Of course I should have found more exact directions before I left the hostel and took the bus to an unfamiliar neighborhood, but I was too excited to get going to sit down and think about practical things. In the coffee shop, I discovered that the main hub of Norrebro was just a half mile walk away, so I headed in that direction.

I was instantly happy when I arrived in the neighborhood and immediately spotted a cute café, called Sebastopol, for more coffee and a bite to eat. I sat outside in the cobblestone square and people watched while I drank my coffee. This was exactly how I pictured I would spend my time in Copenhagen.

The women of this beautiful city make me want to throw my Ventra Card (public transportation in Chicago) in the river and buy a bike and some flowy dresses. The basket of bread and croissants I ordered (and finished off, I might add) was probably unnecessary, but I rationalized that it would give me the energy I needed to walk around. After I reluctantly peeled myself out of my comfy chair and paid my bill, I started to wander the neighborhood, popping into the very trendy clothing stores and thrift shops as I went.

The stores that I liked best were: Urban Room, a cut clothing and home goods store with beautiful posters and fancy undies, Mondo Kaos, which sold gorgeous vintage dresses with accessories to match, and Baan Suan, really beautiful and practical clothing and jewelry. There were plenty of others that were fun to browse through, but those were the ones that stand out to me.

In between the stores were plenty of cafes, bars, sweet shops and restaurants. Everyone I passed was super stylish and I was so glad I wore something decent that day. After hours of zigzagging through the neighborhood, I wound up at BRUS, a brewery/restaurant with craft beer and cocktails on tap.

I ordered the BRUS Cocktail (when in Rome…), which was a tastier, fancier gin and tonic. They had picnic tables set outside around the restaurant, which is where I sat to enjoy my drink and do some more people watching. The people of Copenhagen gave me some major fashion goals.

I decided to head to the SMK National Gallery from Norrebro, which had me wander back through the neighborhood one last time. My favorite thing about Norrebro is that wherever there was a free space along a wall, people had tables of antiques and used goods set up. It made exploring the neighborhood like a treasure hunt through an antique store.

Plus they had actual great antique stores throughout as well. The walk also took me along the three rectangular lakes in Copenhagen, named Sortedams So. It was a beautiful walk and I passed many other pedestrians and bikers and picnickers enjoying the beautiful day.

The museum itself was housed in a huge building with a sprawling lawn behind it and a pond in front. I arrived there in the late afternoon and the museum closed at 5pm, so I rushed in to see as much as possible. The entry was included in the Copenhagen Card, but my bag was deemed too big, so I had to store it in their cloak room. It was actually a relief not to have to carry that clunky thing around for a while.

I started at the top of the main building and work myself through the works of European Art from the 1300’s to the 1900’s. My favorite paintings were the works of Johan Christian Dahl, whose paintings of Danish landscapes were gorgeous, and the Picasso and Mattisse paintings, of course.

I would have loved to take more time walking through, but I did get through most of the museum in my two hours there. They have a whole other building dedicated to modern art that I wish I had more time in, but that side of the museum was amazing and whimsical in its displays. The two buildings are connected through indoor bridges on the higher floors and a walkway of sculptures on the main floor.

If you plan on visiting the SMK, I would recommend setting aside a few hours to take in all the amazing art there. After the museum closed, I headed back towards downtown, this time on foot. Each new area I was exploring in Copenhagen was making me love the city more and more.

Which neighborhoods in Copenhagen have you explored?

Christiania + Tivoli Gardens

On November 6, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel1 Comment

Christiania and Tivoli Gardens are two of the better known attractions in Copenhagen, but could not be more different. I visited them both on my first day in Copenhagen, and they both left significant impressions on me. I walked to Christiania from Paper Island, which took about twenty-five minutes. For a moment, I thought maybe I’d missed it. It’s kind of a hard place to find, but then you notice the painted buildings and the small market stalls and the other tourists wandering around, looking perplexed.

Christiania is an autonomous neighborhood, meaning it’s technically its own micronation, and was created in 1971. It became famous for its inhabitants interesting way of life and for its green light district, which is actually no longer openly advertised. It’s a strange place, because it seems like the people of Christiania aren’t super happy about tourists tromping through their town, but also want to sell them Christiania t-shirts and homemade goods. A lot of the area outside of the main square consists of brightly colored homes along cobblestone streets.

This area is one of Copenhagen’s most popular tourist attractions, in fact, it is even included on the Hop On, Hop Off tours of the city. However, there is no photography allowed inside the neighborhood. This, along with no running and have fun (smiley face, pot leaf) are the neighborhoods displayed rules. It’s a beautiful place to visit, with amazing murals on the walls and a town square with shops and restaurants and a gorgeous little lake. I’m glad I went but I also felt a bit guilty about bursting into this peaceful community (and sneaking some pictures).

Tivoli gardens, on the other hand, is also very colorful but in a much more manufactured way. Photos are encouraged and everything there is there for tourism. The park was a short walk away from my hostel, Annex Copenhagen. The entry fee was included in my Copenhagen Card, but the entry fee didn’t cover any of the rides, so I paid an additional $33 to get an unlimited pass. Like I would go to one of the world’s oldest theme parks and NOT go on any of the rides, psh.

As I entered the park, I walked by a stage where a ballet was being performed, and the main stage, where an apparently famous Danish band, Dizzy Mizz Lizzy, was to play that evening. I headed straight to the rides, and hopped on one small roller coaster, aptly named The Roller Coaster, that took me through dark caves and bumped along over fake mountains.

I hate to say it, but during my time at Tivoli Gardens, I did feel a bit like a loner, especially having to get on the rides with families of three or with the third wheels of dates. I still had fun though. Especially on the swings, which are always my favorite. Once we reached the top, the city was bathed in a red glow from the setting sun and the view was completely stunning. I think that was the very instant I fell in love with this city.

The largest roller coaster in the park was called The Demon, which I got in line for after dark. It was a thrilling, twisty-turny ride that I absolutely loved. I would have gone again but by that time, the lines were getting a bit long. I got a hot dog and beer from one of the many snack stands and sat down to soak in the beautiful, historic park in all of its twinkly-light glory.

I went on a few more little rides, including an incredibly creepy Hans Christian Anderson themed ride featuring grinning animatronics. I was planning on staying to listen to the band, but once they started playing the park filled to capacity and there was nowhere to even stand to see them.

After I left Tivoli Gardens, I wandered back to the hotel to have a nightcap and do some writing in the bar. The hostel I was staying in, Annex Copenhagen, was unique in that it was attached the Absalon Hotel, and to get in and out you used the hotel entrance. The hostel occupied the same floors as the hotel, but you could tell where the nice hotel rooms ended and the hostel rooms began because the carpet went from calm pastels to garish, brightly colored carpets and signs for communal bathrooms decorating the walls.

That’s not to say the hostel wasn’t nice, it definitely was. The bathrooms were clean and private and my room was cozy and overlooked the hotel’s courtyard. I went to bed that night feeling content and happy with my first full day in Copenhagen and ready to begin exploring again the next morning.

Have you been to Tivoli Gardens? Which was your favorite ride?

Canal Tour & Copenhagen Street Food

On October 30, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel6 Comments

After a frustratingly long day of travel to get to Copenhagen the day before, I was very happy to start fresh on my first full day in this beautiful city. Walking the streets of Copenhagen was a completely wonderful and totally humbling experience. The history of the city is palpable. The architecture is stunning. I don’t even know how to describe it fully; it was all just classically European.

My first stop was a café called Streckers for breakfast, where I enjoyed a teeny, tiny croissant and an iced coffee. They had Bill Withers on the stereo and the Broncos v. Panthers game on the TV. It was a nice place, but the only thing really remarkable about it was how small the croissants are (see for yourself below).

From there, I kept wandering with the intention of eventually finding Nyhavn to take a canal tour. There was no shortage of storefronts and cafes, and I thoroughly enjoyed hopping into the cute boutiques to browse.

Nyhavn is perhaps one of the most photographed neighborhood in Copenhagen, with its brightly colored rows of buildings on either side of the boat-lined canal. It is so very charming that I can see how it’s so popular. The canal tour was included with the Copenhagen Card, which I picked up earlier that morning from the city visitor center.

The boat was about 2/3’s full with tourists all listening intently to our tour guide, Astrid, who switched between English, French and Danish with ease. The canal tour wove through the city, under bridges that were so low we had to duck our heads to avoid losing them.

It was a great way to see a lot of the city for the first time, but gave me no real bearings of how to get to the attractions we passed on land. I loved being on the water though. We passed through residential areas where our tour guide was not allowed to speak, so we sat in companionable silence and admired the scenery until we had moved on.

Astrid gave us some insights into what the Danes think of some of their most famous attractions; for example, they liken their Opera House to a toaster and believe that the Little Mermaid statue is the most disappointing tourist attraction. She was very knowledgeable and presented all the facts with just enough sarcasm to keep us on our toes.

The canal tour was a great way to form my must-see list for the rest of my stay in Copenhagen. After the tour, I walked over the inner harbor bridge to the island that houses Copenhagen Street Food. The indoor food market is housed in an old newspaper warehouse (hence the name Paper Island), and offers a wide variety of international meals.

My best advice for visiting this culinary wonderland is get a drink first, because you will definitely be taking a few laps around the food stalls to figure out what you want to eat. Everything looks amazing and the prices aren’t too bad. I did four laps before deciding on a Brazilian grill called Brasa, where I ordered the pork plate with chimichurri sauce, pineapple and pepper slaw, salad and potatoes.

I sat at one of the tables in the center of the stalls; there was plenty of seating despite the crowds of people eating there. They also had outdoor seating by the water, but it was a bit chilly for me.

The food was delicious, and so was the Danish Pilsner I had on the side. The energy in the market was cheerful, and the open layout of the building made it great for people watching. Right next door to this wonderful food labyrinth is Copenhagen Contemporary, an art museum featuring print and performance art. The entry fee is not included in the Copenhagen Card, but it’s only $7.50 so I paid up and went in.

The first exhibit I wandered into was one by Icelandic Artist Ragnar Kjartansson that featured the band The National playing their song “Sorrow” for six hours straight on the roof of the MoMA. At first, I thought it would be a bit of a boring video because of its repetition, but it really drew me in. Each time the song started over you could see the struggle the band was going through to keep playing it. Sometimes they would perk up and power through and sometimes they would almost be crying from exhaustion. I’ll admit it… I downloaded the song right after.

The museum also featured a few installations by Bruce Nauman, which were very thought-provoking and a little in-your-face, and an exhibit by Yoko Ono. The museum was a fun experience and I’m glad I popped in. If you are planning on eating at Copenhagen Street Food, the Copenhagen Contemporary is definitely worth a visit!