Category: Jordan

Day Trips from Jordan by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

Jordan Day Trips to Petra and Wadi Rum

On By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan2 Comments

The following guide to Jordan Day Trips is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

We had one more big event planned for our time in Jordan and that was a visit to the Southern part of the country, to Petra and Wadi Rum. Petra is an ancient city built into the red rock faces of the desert. It is hailed as one of the wonders of archaeology and had been hidden to the outside world until 1812. The drive to Petra from Amman took about 3.5 hours. We didn’t have as much time as the visit deserves so we took a donkey carriage from the entrance to the treasury, the first major site of the city. I would love to one day walk the trail (instead of ride a carriage) as one of the most beautiful elements of the site is the cavernous walls that border the path to the city. It feels like you’re approaching something out of an Indiana Jones movie, suddenly you round a corner and the treasury peeks through the rocks. The city is huge. If you’re adventurous you’ll want to take the hike up to the monastery (and allow extra time, the way up takes about 40 minutes), but others will get just as much of a kick from walking through ancient tombs and amongst old houses. The Bedouin people used to control Petra but were moved by the government in the 80s. They still live nearby and control pretty much all tourist amenities inside the site including camel rides, coffee stands, and tours. Since it was the off season and we were with Zara they often stopped asking if we wanted a “Bedouin Taxi” or camel ride after one or two tries and then just hung out with us while we explored. One man, Eagle of the Desert, as he introduced himself to us, showed us how Bedouin women used to wear makeup from the walls of the rocks and waxed poetic on the beauties of the desert and Bedouin tea. He was an exceptional part of our visit to Petra.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
When the sun started to go down we got back to our car and made our way to Wadi Rum, the expansive desert in the southern part of the country. Wadi Rum has long been the subject of literature and artists, most recently it was featured as the landscape for Mars in the movie The Martian. The drive to our camp from Petra was about 2 hours long so we arrived well past dark. It was like driving through outer space, every once in a while being able to make out the outline of a massive rock formation in the moonlight. Bedouins live throughout Wadi Rum and run camps for tourists to stay in. These range from luxurious, queen-sized bed and indoor plumbing, to rugged, sleeping on the floor and outdoor toilets. Upon arrival we ate an absurd amount of food once again and retired to bed early after some incredible star-gazing as we had planned a sunrise adventure into the desert.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

At 5am we met our tour guide, a local Bedouin man with kind eyes and a calm demeanor. We hopped in the back of his pick-up truck and he drove us to the perfect place to watch the sunrise over the alien landscape. It was like nothing I had ever seen in my life. That morning was one of my favorite moments of the trip. It was peaceful and endless. The eye never had the chance to rest, always taking in more and more different spectacles. Our guide drove us from secret site to site, from friend’s camps to the place where the famed Lawrence of Arabia had once sat. Also if you’re looking to ride a camel, Wadi Rum is the place to do it. The Bedouins are expert camel owners so you can rest easy knowing these animals probably have a pretty good life out there. It’s about 5 dinar for a 2 minute ride which may seem steep but to be honest that is probably the maximum amount of time you want to spend on a camel. They are not the most comfortable beast. We had tea at two different Bedouin camps, the most delicious, sweet tea made even better the fact that it was positively freezing in the back of that truck.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
If you go anytime that isn’t the middle of July, be sure to bring warm, warm clothes to wear. Bring more than you think. Desert cold is bone rattling. And be sure to bring some sort of lotion and sunscreen, by the end our wind-chapped faces where pink and dry, but very smiley. It was one of the most incredible mornings of my life full of exploration, wonder, and humility. Meeting the Bedouins who call the desert home reminds you of what is most beautiful about this life and this earth. They hold the utmost respect for their home, our guide spoke often about how much love he held in his heart for the desert. He knew how to read the sand and the sky and understood what the land was telling him. He was so considerate he seemed almost otherworldly. He wanted to help us see what was most beautiful about his home and why we needed to protect it. Every Bedouin I met was kind and engaging regardless of a language barrier. The tour of the desert took half the day, we arrived back at the camp at noon, had some lunch and returned to Amman, a 4 hour drive.

Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

To read more about Gracie’s travels in Jordan, click here and here.

2016: A Year in Review, RebeccaWanderlusting

Amman Day Trips

On By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan1 Comment

The following Amman Day Trips guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

After thoroughly exploring Amman, you may feel the need to get out and explore more of the country. Jerash is about a 45 minute drive north of the city and it is worth every minute and more. Often called the Pompeii of the East, Jerash is a must-see for anyone with even the slightest interest in history. It is awe-inducing in size and preservation. Walking down the main street you practically hear the Roman vendors and merchants arguing about prices and sales. You can walk through the temple of Zeus and sit on the steps of the temple of Artemis. The best part about it is that it’s so big that you can often wander for a few moments without seeing another person, completely losing yourself in the process. The amphitheater is the most incredible part of it all. It stands in near perfect condition, its height daunting and causing legs to wobble at the top. Sometimes a group of musicians waits inside to serenade you with a song and to show you where to stand to get your voice to echo throughout the entire stadium. You will most likely encounter some men waiting inside for tourists to tell you a few facts or show you around for a second in exchange for a few dinars. Some of these guys have worthwhile facts, like the guy who will show you the hollow pillar that echoes when hit in just the right spot, but others may just be trying to sell you something. Keep your wits about you and you’ve got nothing to worry about, they won’t pester you if you politely say no. Jerash is like traveling back in time for a day, so plan for plenty of hours to spend back in the 2nd century.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
Another day trip that would probably take about half the time of Jerash is a visit to Madaba. Only about 45 minutes away from Amman, Madaba is like a laid-back brother to the capital city. It is home to St. George’s Church which houses the oldest map of Palestine known to us today. The ancient mosaic was uncovered when the church was renovated, so the church itself isn’t ancient, but the mosaic is a special surprise. Madaba also has Mt. Nebo, the place where Moses was supposedly shown the Holy Land. On a clear day you can see Jerusalem from the top and a stunning view of neighboring Palestine. After seeing the sites be sure to stop at Haret Jdoudna for a life-changing meal. The restaurant is a legendary family-owned business housed in a restored 20th century Madaba house and it is almost as if you can taste the hard work and history in the food. Madaba will only take about half of your day so if you have the time it’s a great quick trip to get away from the noise of Amman.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
Another day trip from the city worth your while is Bethany, or the Baptism site of Jesus Christ, yes that Jesus. This site even counts Pope Francis as one of its most recent visitors. I’m not and never have been a religious person, but I am an art history scholar and visiting the actual land that the names and faces I’ve come to know through endless art and scripture was inspiring. The baptism site on the Jordanian side of the River Jordan is a humble set of stairs leading into a reservoir fed by the river. You cannot go in the exact site but you can baptize yourself in the nearby river a few steps away. It is a beautiful and calming experience to feel the muddy ground of the river and feel the cold water. You also get a view of the Palestinian side of the river, now controlled by Israel and a brand new, very big tourist center. In my opinion, it took away from the experience to be so detached from the earth at the spot, I was glad to be on the side of the river where grass and water still rushed past your feet, not wet concrete. It is a good idea to dress respectfully and mindfully, and, if you’re a woman, perhaps wear a swimsuit under your baptism dress if you want to actually go into the water (as opposed to undergarments). You are lead through the site in groups that leave from a designated parking area and guided around the many paths that make up the area. Our visit didn’t take very long but it was a valuable experience and sure to be extremely moving if you are religious or interested in history. To think of how much the Christian faith and the figure of Jesus has affected our world since his time is overwhelming. Everything from wars and assassinations, the formation and destruction of empires and people, and hopefully a wide-spread message of love and acceptance has been influenced by the name of this one man who once walked the same land you can now walk today. It’s definitely a special experience regardless of faith (word to wise about the souvenir shop there, the prices are very high. You can likely find similar objects in a souvenir shop in Amman for much less).
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
From the baptism site we went to spend the evening at the Dead Sea. We visited Jordan in the winter so we had planned our time to only be an evening, but if I were to visit in the summer I would love to luxuriate there for as long as a week. To drive from the baptism site to the Marriott at the Dead Sea only took us about 30 minutes. We purchased a pass from the front entrance of the hotel for about 40 dinars each since it was off-season for access to the beach and pool for the day. We each changed into our suit in the hotel bathroom, as Caroline and I were determined to go in the sea despite the chilly weather and cloudy skies. It was definitely not what I had pictured in my mind when I envisioned going the Dead Sea, namely missing the ungodly sunny skies and tropical drinks with umbrellas in them, and maybe some reggaeton playing somewhere. But I wouldn’t trade anything for the experience we got.  We began our walk down the path to the beach which was absolutely deserted. If Zara was any evidence, no Jordanian in their right mind wants to go into the Dead Sea in January (even though it was only 60 degrees! Practically tropical compared to the weather back home in Chicago). After covering ourselves in Dead Sea mud from giant clay pots on the shore we eventually convinced Zara to join us in the water, which was surprisingly warm and comfortable. A word of warning: it is nearly impossible to look graceful while walking into the Dead Sea. The shoreline is all small rocks with crystallized salt covering them. This, as you can imagine, is not the most pleasing thing to walk barefoot across, but it is worth it for the weightless feeling one gets when floating in that sea. I’ve never felt anything quite like it! It was even hard to swim properly because you cannot hold your legs down, everything just floats right to the top. Be very careful not to get any water in your eyes or mouth, the stinging sensation is very real and the taste is absolutely disgusting. After getting used to the floating sensation it is possible to take your phone or camera in the water to get some unreal and jealousy-inducing selfies. It is also wonderful to just float for a while unimpeded and let everything slip away.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
It was near sunset by the time we got in the water. Despite being cloudy all day long, the sun came out for the last 20 minutes of its time in the sky and absolutely blew us away. It was just the three of us in the water and an adorable Jordanian beach attendant down on the shore. We felt like the only people in the whole sea and the only people experiencing this incredible sight. Technically you can’t stay down on the beach past sunset but it was so beautiful and we were begging our new friend to please, please let us have 5 more minutes. After we finally went with him back up the steps, he had had his friend/coworker bring around a golf cart to take us back up to the showers and hotel (it will definitely be necessary to shower after the sea, that much salt doesn’t feel too great once dry and you might not have gotten all the mud off). We chatted with him on the way up and he said what so many of the wonderful people I had met so far said before him, that he was so excited that we were American and we were visiting and enjoying Jordan. He wanted to be sure we had an incredible time and that we would be able to tell everyone back home how special this place is. I often think about all the amazing individuals who helped us in our journey and try to tell as many people as I can that my favorite part about the trip was meeting these people with such generous hearts. The hotel has plenty of lounge space for a post-swim drink and supper. After that we threw our sleepy selves in the car and headed back to Amman, about 1.5 hours away.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting

An Amman Travel Guide

On By rebeccawanderlustingIn International Travel, Jordan1 Comment

The following brilliant travel guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

My memories of Jordan are steeped in pale sunlight and the smell of fresh mint, in salt crystals and shisha smoke escaping through windows. I was lucky enough to wake up one January morning and find myself in a sprawling city of sandy colored houses and minarets marking the seven hills that make up Amman, the capital city of Jordan. The stories you hear of Arab hospitality are not myth. Everywhere I went I was welcomed with open arms and a desire to share an ancient culture. I left with that same desire instilled in me, to share the culture of a people so often misunderstood in the west. These people are grouped together under one brusque stereotype, when in reality there are millions of nuanced beauties of Jordanian and Arab culture. I found myself in Jordan because it is the home of one of my good friends and former college roommate. Zara and I met when we were both bright-faced freshman in our dorm at Boston University. Ever since then, Zara has been urging me to come and visit her in Jordan. As an early graduation gift, another good friend, Caroline, and I took the 5,000 mile journey across the ocean to finally open our minds and hearts to the culture that we had heard so much about for the past 4 years.

For those who are surprised that I took a vacation to the Middle East, let me just say that I never felt unsafe in all my time in Jordan. Jordan is a country surrounded by conflict. Its neighbors to the west, Palestine and Israel, have been fighting for more than 60 years in a war that has no end in sight, a war that causes sorrow on both sides and for thousands around the world. To the east lies Iraq, another land that has not known the definition of peace for many years. Jordan’s northern neighbor is the most well-known in today’s news, Syria. Hundreds of Syrians stream across the border every day to seek the protection of Jordan’s sturdy bones, escaping a number of tragedies including relentless bombings by a corrupt government, impassioned recruitment from militant groups, and misguided foreign intervention. One would think the stability of Jordan would be rocked by its tumultuous neighbors, but there is a strength in the land and the people that impresses upon any visitor. I encourage everyone who has a passion for experiencing foreign cultures and exploring a new land to visit.

My non-stop flight from Chicago O’Hare on Royal Jordanian landed around 5 pm in Amman after 16 hours in the air. Upon our arrival, we set out with Zara to do what we would spend approximately 70% of our time in Jordan doing: eating. Amman is bursting with beautiful restaurants and delicious meals to be had. One of my favorites was on our first morning. We visited a falafel shop in the heart of downtown Amman, Falafel Hashem. It was filled with families with young children, teenagers probably playing hooky from school, and everyone in between. The falafel was unreal, the hummus and mint tea soothing to a weary traveler. It is a must-stop in Amman, a real local spot with extremely reasonable prices, a laid back atmosphere and outdoor seating. For dessert we went around the corner and got knafeh from Habiba sweets. Also located in the heart of downtown through a side alley, Habiba always has a line of hungry Jordanians snaking around the door, waiting to get their hands on the sugar-soaked cheese pastry. I fell madly in love with knafeh. I would eat it every day for the rest of my life if possible, but I know it will never taste as good as that first bite in an alley in Amman.
An Amman Travel Guide
There is no shortage of things to do in Amman. The easiest way to get around is by car. Taxis are cheap and there is even a branch of Uber in the city, but it’s best to get a local to take you around or hire a car. The streets are narrow and winding up and over the hills but relatively easy to navigate on foot. One of the main tourist areas is Rainbow Street, which is also a favorite of locals.  It’s filled with shops for anything from souvenirs to household goods. I popped into a random hardware store to find some Arabic coffee makers for a cheaper price than I would get at a tourist store. There’s a beautiful glassware shop that has some pretty good sales on small tea glasses, great souvenirs if you’re confident in your wrapping and packing ability. If the shopping tires you out stop in to Turtlegreen for some free WiFi and wide variety of tea blends (and some cute pet turtles!). Just off of Rainbow Street is one of my favorite places in Amman, Books@cafe. The downstairs area of this space is a bookstore selling both Arab and English books, new and used. Climb the stairs and you’re transported to a trendy cafe with tons of enticing menu choices that include Arab and Western specialties. Sit down with a book and enjoy shisha, coffee, tea, beer (Carakale is Jordan’s first micro brew) or wine. Plenty of young Jordanians are scattered around every corner of the lounge. In the summer there’s a great terrace with a sneaky view of the city.

One of the best neighborhoods to wander through is Weibdeh. If you’re traveling alone, it is safe to walk through without much precaution and has a burgeoning scene of cool shops and restaurants. It is the so-called Brooklyn of Amman. Start at Rakwet Arab cafe for a delicious breakfast of manakish, an Arab version of pizza often topped with fresh cheese or za’atar (or both!), and Arab coffee. The inside of this cafe is cozy and nostalgic with old photos from Lebanon and Jordan hanging on the walls and a number of crumpled magazines on shelves. After lazing through a meal, wander the streets and find yourself at Darat al-Funun Gallery. This inspiring gallery is located in an old, spacious house and hosts exhibits of numerous Arab artists. When we arrived, the gallery was mostly closed in preparation for an upcoming show, but we ran into a groundskeeper who proudly showed us around every nook and cranny of the space. He spoke only Arabic, but we were lucky enough to have Zara with us to translate. It is my sincere belief that even if it was just Caroline and I, two white Americans, the man would have shown us around and given us the same tour. His pride in the work done at Darat al Funun was evident even through a language barrier. He hailed from Nablus, Palestine and showed us the beautiful work he had done in decorating one of the rooms in traditional Nablus style. There is a ruined Byzantine church on the grounds and seemingly endless flow of beautiful gardens draping down the hill. A cafe located on one of the terraces overlooks the city, stop here for some freshly squeezed orange juice or a cup of rose water tea and wait for the call to prayer to echo through the hills from every mosque in the city. It is not hard to find peace in this place.
An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting

After a mindful respite from the bustle of the city, head back out for some shopping. Jobedu has a shop in Weibdeh selling shirts and knickknacks with references to Arab pop culture. Pick up an Um Kalthoum “Habibi” sweatshirt for your collection and support local artists in doing so. Hop in a cab and continue your shopping on the neighboring hill at Wild Jordan, the home of the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. The newly renovated building has a cafe, an information center for planning nature excursions all over the country, and a shop promoting local artisans. It also has a great view of the city and the Citadel. The Amman Citadel is a collection of ruins on top of the central hill of Amman from numerous cultures that held power over the city throughout the years. There is also a great, yet tiny, museum on the top that holds archaeological relics from our oldest prehistoric ancestors all the way to the Umayyad’s. The Roman Amphitheater is also worth a visit, although if you are planning to make your way to Jerash (which you should) then you might be able to skip it. A few other places in Amman that are worth a visit include:

–Dar al-Anda – almost next door to Darat al Funun, this gallery also specializes in contemporary Arab artists.

–Nabad art gallery – another gallery space down the street from Wild Jordan. It’s peaceful courtyard provides a place to breathe away from the city, if only for a second.

–Shams el Balad – a beautiful cafe with amazing Turkish coffee and unique takes on traditional Arab food. Try the knafeh cheesecake cup!

–The Soap House – If you’re looking for high-quality, uniquely scented, Dead Sea products to bring home, this hidden spot is just the place. Down a hill off of Rainbow Street this special spot might be a bit of a hunt but it’s worth it. The salt scrubs make your skin softer than you’ve ever felt it before, and it’s not sky-high pricing.

–Bazar Alibaba Cave – if, like me, your favorite souvenirs are old antiques, then this minuscule shop is for you. The owner speaks a bit of English and is willing to bargain. His shop is a wonderland of old patches, stone and ceramic trinkets, and remnants from wars and Jordan’s history. This spot is located right downtown and if you’re not looking you’ll miss it. Look them up on Facebook for a rough address.

An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting
Any words I write here truly cannot do this place justice. My trip was blessed with good luck, a local friend, and beautiful people. But regardless of if you know someone in Jordan or not I believe that if you’re open and adventurous some of the people you meet there could become your last-minute guide and lifelong friends. It is a culture that longs to be shared with others, especially those who are unfamiliar with it. I left Jordan with an inspired mind and a full heart. I’m hoping that my stories have lit a fire that won’t be satisfied until you feel the Jordanian sun on your face. Yalla, let’s go.