Solo Trip Snapshots, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland

Mount Esja, which can be seen in the background of Reykjavik in most photos, is just a quick hop, skip and jump from downtown.  I was very lucky to have such amazing AirBnb hosts that drove me there on their way to a family event.  As we got close, Hulda pointed out her old neighborhood, school and stomping grounds; this area was where she grew up.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
When they dropped me off in the parking lot, they explained how I would get back and were off.  When I reached the trail head, I made my best guess as to which trail was the scenic route to the top, as the sign was in Icelandic.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
I chose a path to my right and walked happily along, realizing about a half mile in that I was headed in the opposite direction as the mountain I wanted to be on top of.  The walk was beautiful, taking me through fields of wild flowers, wooded areas, and on wobbly bridges over streams.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Eventually I made it to the top of a hill where a couple were taking photos, and I asked them how to get to the top of Mount Esja.  They pointed me in the direction from which they came and said I would come to a fork in the trail, which would put me on the right path.  While the detour was very pretty, I was happy to be on my way.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
The path consisted of loose gravel and was extremely steep, and after each switchback it became even steeper than before.  I had to bribe myself with water and bites of cliff bar to keep going.  Truth be told, this is probably one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done.  The views from each switchback was gorgeous, especially with the sun coming up, reflecting off the lake below and making it look metallic.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
There were two paths that went to the top, and I chose to go up the steeper trail and down the longer, more scenic trail.  I thought the steeper trail might be quicker, and maybe it was, but it was also pretty rough.  The terrain was rocky and a little precarious in places, so much so that I had to move in an awkward crawl, pulling myself up the steep hill with my hands.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
When I reached Steinn, the first summit, I stopped for some water and tried to decide if I wanted to keep going.  The wind had picked up and the path to the very top looked a little intimidating.  I asked a man passing by if it was safe to keep going up with the wind as it was, and he said “Ehhhh yeah, is not so bad.”  Then I asked him if it was OK for beginner hikers and he said “Sure it is.”
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
So I started climbing up.  The path was tricky, with multiple paths sprouting from what I thought was the main trail.  I saw a climber above me slip, and slide down the gravel until he caught himself on a rock, which was my cue to head back down.  I wasn’t confident that my legs, which felt like jelly, wouldn’t betray me and send my clumsy butt tumbling down the mountain.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
As I turned to go, I saw the gentleman I was speaking with earlier pass me going up a different path.  I waved and kept moving.  As soon as I started down the longer path back down to the bottom, I slipped on the gravel and fell right on my ass, scraping my hands on the way down.  I brushed myself off and kept moving, glaring at the super humans that were actually jogging past me like it was a high school track and not a rocky slip’n’slide.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
The scenery was so beautiful that I felt like I had accidentally walked onto a movie set.  There was a creek that ran along the path that was crossed a couple of times along the way over the most picturesque bridges and stepping stones.  I really couldn’t believe how stunning the view was, which was probably why I kept tripping over my feet.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
The last 15 minutes of my hike were probably the most tiring, a feeling that was made worse by the sight of the bus back downtown pulling out of the parking lot as I was getting so close to the ground.  The next one was an hour and a half away, so I stopped into the café at the bottom of the mountain for a late lunch.  Esjustofa Restaurant opens daily at 11:00am and serves soups, sandwiches, pizza and beverages.  I got a sandwich and a latte and settled in to write for a bit.  The food was typical café fare, but the guy behind the counter was very kind and helpful.
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
I caught the #57 bus to a bus terminal closer to downtown, and then the #12 bus back to the Airbnb (which can also be taken to downtown Reykjavik).  When I got back, Hulda explained that it was probably good that I didn’t hike to the top because a few people fall down the mountain and break a couple bones each year.  So I guess I made the right decision!  Mount Esja was a wonderful, beautiful, challenging hike, and, with its close proximity to the city, it is a perfect day trip from Reykjavik.  Here are a couple of tips if you choose to visit Mount Esja:

  • Bring plenty of water and a snack, you will need it
  • Wear good hiking boots or gym shoes and warm clothes
  • Bring a hat that will cover your ears and fight the wind
  • Enjoy the scenery! But maybe stop walking to do so
  • It’s okay to only make it up to Steinn, most people turn around there too

Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hiking Mount Esja, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Have you ever hiked in Iceland?  Where’s your favorite hiking spot there?

Budget-Friendly Ways to Indulge Your Wanderlust, RebeccaWanderlusting

Exploring Reykjavik

I landed in Iceland at 7:00am after a restless flight, so I was tired and a little bit crabby when I found the Grayline Bus that would take me into Reykjavik.  But, by the time it arrived into the main station (just outside the city) the surrounding scenery had roused me out of my half-conscious; my first impression of the impressively beautiful country did not disappoint.
First View of Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
The main station was very close to where I was staying, in an AirBnB.  I had to walk along a highway to get there and cross into a neighborhood that housed the apartment where I would be staying, Mount Esja looming behind me the whole walk.  My hosts very graciously allowed me to drop off my bags well before check in time, and then, going above and beyond their hosting duties, drove me downtown so that I could start exploring.
Pedestrian Street, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
My host, Hulda, pointed out where I would catch the bus back to their apartment and dropped me off at one end of the pedestrian walkway, where I started walking with no real direction in mind.  The streets in Reykjavik are pretty easy to navigate once you get the hang of it, and most of the shops and restaurants are on two main strips.  Because it was so early when I arrived, not many places were open quite yet, so I strolled and window shopped.
Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Café Paris was one of the few places that were open, so I jumped at the chance for some breakfast and went in.  It was a seat yourself kind of place so I sat and ordered a latte and a croissant with ham and cheese and jam when prompted.  The café, turned bar in the evening, was cute and relaxed in the way that all European cafes seem to be.  The food was good, and they served Illy espresso, which is my favorite so I was a happy camper.
Cafe Paris, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
From Café Paris, I walked over to the harbor to see the Harpa music hall and the Sun Voyager.  This walk along the coast was so peaceful and gorgeous.  I think it was at this moment, being next to the sea, walking in the sunshine that I felt like I had made it, and I was so happy to be in Iceland.  The Sun Voyager, which was swamped with tourist hopping of buses to take a picture with the famous statue, had a beautiful view behind it, with the ocean in the forefront and the mountains beyond.
Harpa, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Sun Voyager, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Back towards the downtown area was the Kolaportid Flea Market, which is only open on the weekends.  The market was certainly interesting to walk through, though I didn’t buy anything.  It’s funny how the kitschy gifts and antiques differ from country to country.  This market has a little bit of everything, from the itchy wool lopapeysa sweaters to books and records to antiques to classic Icelandic cuisine.  It was a lively place to be, with locals and tourists alike browsing through the stalls.
Kolaportid Flea Market, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Kolaportid Flea Market, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
I decided to walk over to the famous church in Reykjavik, Hallgrimskirkja, to see the view from the top.  The church is at the top of the pedestrian walkway.  Outside, the church is architecturally beautiful, and inside it is stunning, especially the huge, gilded organ on the wall above the entry.
Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Hallgrimskirkja Church, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
The ticket to go up to the top of the church is $8, and well worth it for the views.  After taking a small (6 person max) elevator to the 8th floor, you have a 360 degree view of the city, which can be seen from the church windows, while standing on a step stool for a better vantage point.
View From Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
View From Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
Once I left the church, it started raining, which it did on and off for the rest of the day, so I dodged in and out of shops and restaurants along the pedestrian street.  Many of the stores along this popular street are adorable, but very expensive so I didn’t end up purchasing anything.  I did love the beautiful clothing at Geysir, the cute designs at Aurum and the charming home goods and accessories at Hrím Hönnunarhús.  I popped into Svarta Kaffid, a restaurant that serves only soup in bread bowls and drinks to go with it.
Svarta Kaffid, Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
This hearty meal was exactly what I needed after being out in the cold, wet weather.  It was a small, cozy restaurant with Icelandic beer on tap, and I was happy to settle in for a bit to try and wait out the rain.  It eventually cleared up and I headed over to the Iceland Culture House Museum which was free to enter and offered a unique look into Icelandic art and history.
Culture House Museum, Reykjavik, Iceland
It wasn’t very crowded, so I was free to take in the exhibits at a leisurely pace.  The general theme was how Icelandic Artists interpret their country’s history in various mediums.  I really enjoyed visiting this museum!  At this point, jet lag set in hard, so I found a convenience store, where I purchased a ten ride pass for the bus (a decision I later regretted – such an unnecessary expense).
Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting
I took the bus back to my Airbnb, a 15 minute ride outside of downtown, and took it easy for the rest of the day.  Reykjavik is such an easy city to fall in love with; it’s walkable, easy to navigate, and cute and colorful.  After one day of exploring, I was already smitten.

Exploring Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

Have you ever been to Reykjavik?  Which city attraction was your favorite?

Day Trips from Jordan by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

Jordan Day Trips to Petra and Wadi Rum

The following guide to Jordan Day Trips is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

We had one more big event planned for our time in Jordan and that was a visit to the Southern part of the country, to Petra and Wadi Rum. Petra is an ancient city built into the red rock faces of the desert. It is hailed as one of the wonders of archaeology and had been hidden to the outside world until 1812. The drive to Petra from Amman took about 3.5 hours. We didn’t have as much time as the visit deserves so we took a donkey carriage from the entrance to the treasury, the first major site of the city. I would love to one day walk the trail (instead of ride a carriage) as one of the most beautiful elements of the site is the cavernous walls that border the path to the city. It feels like you’re approaching something out of an Indiana Jones movie, suddenly you round a corner and the treasury peeks through the rocks. The city is huge. If you’re adventurous you’ll want to take the hike up to the monastery (and allow extra time, the way up takes about 40 minutes), but others will get just as much of a kick from walking through ancient tombs and amongst old houses. The Bedouin people used to control Petra but were moved by the government in the 80s. They still live nearby and control pretty much all tourist amenities inside the site including camel rides, coffee stands, and tours. Since it was the off season and we were with Zara they often stopped asking if we wanted a “Bedouin Taxi” or camel ride after one or two tries and then just hung out with us while we explored. One man, Eagle of the Desert, as he introduced himself to us, showed us how Bedouin women used to wear makeup from the walls of the rocks and waxed poetic on the beauties of the desert and Bedouin tea. He was an exceptional part of our visit to Petra.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
When the sun started to go down we got back to our car and made our way to Wadi Rum, the expansive desert in the southern part of the country. Wadi Rum has long been the subject of literature and artists, most recently it was featured as the landscape for Mars in the movie The Martian. The drive to our camp from Petra was about 2 hours long so we arrived well past dark. It was like driving through outer space, every once in a while being able to make out the outline of a massive rock formation in the moonlight. Bedouins live throughout Wadi Rum and run camps for tourists to stay in. These range from luxurious, queen-sized bed and indoor plumbing, to rugged, sleeping on the floor and outdoor toilets. Upon arrival we ate an absurd amount of food once again and retired to bed early after some incredible star-gazing as we had planned a sunrise adventure into the desert.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

At 5am we met our tour guide, a local Bedouin man with kind eyes and a calm demeanor. We hopped in the back of his pick-up truck and he drove us to the perfect place to watch the sunrise over the alien landscape. It was like nothing I had ever seen in my life. That morning was one of my favorite moments of the trip. It was peaceful and endless. The eye never had the chance to rest, always taking in more and more different spectacles. Our guide drove us from secret site to site, from friend’s camps to the place where the famed Lawrence of Arabia had once sat. Also if you’re looking to ride a camel, Wadi Rum is the place to do it. The Bedouins are expert camel owners so you can rest easy knowing these animals probably have a pretty good life out there. It’s about 5 dinar for a 2 minute ride which may seem steep but to be honest that is probably the maximum amount of time you want to spend on a camel. They are not the most comfortable beast. We had tea at two different Bedouin camps, the most delicious, sweet tea made even better the fact that it was positively freezing in the back of that truck.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
If you go anytime that isn’t the middle of July, be sure to bring warm, warm clothes to wear. Bring more than you think. Desert cold is bone rattling. And be sure to bring some sort of lotion and sunscreen, by the end our wind-chapped faces where pink and dry, but very smiley. It was one of the most incredible mornings of my life full of exploration, wonder, and humility. Meeting the Bedouins who call the desert home reminds you of what is most beautiful about this life and this earth. They hold the utmost respect for their home, our guide spoke often about how much love he held in his heart for the desert. He knew how to read the sand and the sky and understood what the land was telling him. He was so considerate he seemed almost otherworldly. He wanted to help us see what was most beautiful about his home and why we needed to protect it. Every Bedouin I met was kind and engaging regardless of a language barrier. The tour of the desert took half the day, we arrived back at the camp at noon, had some lunch and returned to Amman, a 4 hour drive.

Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

To read more about Gracie’s travels in Jordan, click here and here.

2016: A Year in Review, RebeccaWanderlusting

Amman Day Trips

The following Amman Day Trips guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

After thoroughly exploring Amman, you may feel the need to get out and explore more of the country. Jerash is about a 45 minute drive north of the city and it is worth every minute and more. Often called the Pompeii of the East, Jerash is a must-see for anyone with even the slightest interest in history. It is awe-inducing in size and preservation. Walking down the main street you practically hear the Roman vendors and merchants arguing about prices and sales. You can walk through the temple of Zeus and sit on the steps of the temple of Artemis. The best part about it is that it’s so big that you can often wander for a few moments without seeing another person, completely losing yourself in the process. The amphitheater is the most incredible part of it all. It stands in near perfect condition, its height daunting and causing legs to wobble at the top. Sometimes a group of musicians waits inside to serenade you with a song and to show you where to stand to get your voice to echo throughout the entire stadium. You will most likely encounter some men waiting inside for tourists to tell you a few facts or show you around for a second in exchange for a few dinars. Some of these guys have worthwhile facts, like the guy who will show you the hollow pillar that echoes when hit in just the right spot, but others may just be trying to sell you something. Keep your wits about you and you’ve got nothing to worry about, they won’t pester you if you politely say no. Jerash is like traveling back in time for a day, so plan for plenty of hours to spend back in the 2nd century.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
Another day trip that would probably take about half the time of Jerash is a visit to Madaba. Only about 45 minutes away from Amman, Madaba is like a laid-back brother to the capital city. It is home to St. George’s Church which houses the oldest map of Palestine known to us today. The ancient mosaic was uncovered when the church was renovated, so the church itself isn’t ancient, but the mosaic is a special surprise. Madaba also has Mt. Nebo, the place where Moses was supposedly shown the Holy Land. On a clear day you can see Jerusalem from the top and a stunning view of neighboring Palestine. After seeing the sites be sure to stop at Haret Jdoudna for a life-changing meal. The restaurant is a legendary family-owned business housed in a restored 20th century Madaba house and it is almost as if you can taste the hard work and history in the food. Madaba will only take about half of your day so if you have the time it’s a great quick trip to get away from the noise of Amman.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
Another day trip from the city worth your while is Bethany, or the Baptism site of Jesus Christ, yes that Jesus. This site even counts Pope Francis as one of its most recent visitors. I’m not and never have been a religious person, but I am an art history scholar and visiting the actual land that the names and faces I’ve come to know through endless art and scripture was inspiring. The baptism site on the Jordanian side of the River Jordan is a humble set of stairs leading into a reservoir fed by the river. You cannot go in the exact site but you can baptize yourself in the nearby river a few steps away. It is a beautiful and calming experience to feel the muddy ground of the river and feel the cold water. You also get a view of the Palestinian side of the river, now controlled by Israel and a brand new, very big tourist center. In my opinion, it took away from the experience to be so detached from the earth at the spot, I was glad to be on the side of the river where grass and water still rushed past your feet, not wet concrete. It is a good idea to dress respectfully and mindfully, and, if you’re a woman, perhaps wear a swimsuit under your baptism dress if you want to actually go into the water (as opposed to undergarments). You are lead through the site in groups that leave from a designated parking area and guided around the many paths that make up the area. Our visit didn’t take very long but it was a valuable experience and sure to be extremely moving if you are religious or interested in history. To think of how much the Christian faith and the figure of Jesus has affected our world since his time is overwhelming. Everything from wars and assassinations, the formation and destruction of empires and people, and hopefully a wide-spread message of love and acceptance has been influenced by the name of this one man who once walked the same land you can now walk today. It’s definitely a special experience regardless of faith (word to wise about the souvenir shop there, the prices are very high. You can likely find similar objects in a souvenir shop in Amman for much less).
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
From the baptism site we went to spend the evening at the Dead Sea. We visited Jordan in the winter so we had planned our time to only be an evening, but if I were to visit in the summer I would love to luxuriate there for as long as a week. To drive from the baptism site to the Marriott at the Dead Sea only took us about 30 minutes. We purchased a pass from the front entrance of the hotel for about 40 dinars each since it was off-season for access to the beach and pool for the day. We each changed into our suit in the hotel bathroom, as Caroline and I were determined to go in the sea despite the chilly weather and cloudy skies. It was definitely not what I had pictured in my mind when I envisioned going the Dead Sea, namely missing the ungodly sunny skies and tropical drinks with umbrellas in them, and maybe some reggaeton playing somewhere. But I wouldn’t trade anything for the experience we got.  We began our walk down the path to the beach which was absolutely deserted. If Zara was any evidence, no Jordanian in their right mind wants to go into the Dead Sea in January (even though it was only 60 degrees! Practically tropical compared to the weather back home in Chicago). After covering ourselves in Dead Sea mud from giant clay pots on the shore we eventually convinced Zara to join us in the water, which was surprisingly warm and comfortable. A word of warning: it is nearly impossible to look graceful while walking into the Dead Sea. The shoreline is all small rocks with crystallized salt covering them. This, as you can imagine, is not the most pleasing thing to walk barefoot across, but it is worth it for the weightless feeling one gets when floating in that sea. I’ve never felt anything quite like it! It was even hard to swim properly because you cannot hold your legs down, everything just floats right to the top. Be very careful not to get any water in your eyes or mouth, the stinging sensation is very real and the taste is absolutely disgusting. After getting used to the floating sensation it is possible to take your phone or camera in the water to get some unreal and jealousy-inducing selfies. It is also wonderful to just float for a while unimpeded and let everything slip away.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting
It was near sunset by the time we got in the water. Despite being cloudy all day long, the sun came out for the last 20 minutes of its time in the sky and absolutely blew us away. It was just the three of us in the water and an adorable Jordanian beach attendant down on the shore. We felt like the only people in the whole sea and the only people experiencing this incredible sight. Technically you can’t stay down on the beach past sunset but it was so beautiful and we were begging our new friend to please, please let us have 5 more minutes. After we finally went with him back up the steps, he had had his friend/coworker bring around a golf cart to take us back up to the showers and hotel (it will definitely be necessary to shower after the sea, that much salt doesn’t feel too great once dry and you might not have gotten all the mud off). We chatted with him on the way up and he said what so many of the wonderful people I had met so far said before him, that he was so excited that we were American and we were visiting and enjoying Jordan. He wanted to be sure we had an incredible time and that we would be able to tell everyone back home how special this place is. I often think about all the amazing individuals who helped us in our journey and try to tell as many people as I can that my favorite part about the trip was meeting these people with such generous hearts. The hotel has plenty of lounge space for a post-swim drink and supper. After that we threw our sleepy selves in the car and headed back to Amman, about 1.5 hours away.
Day Trips from Amman by Gracie Barrie, RebeccaWanderlusting

An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting

An Amman Travel Guide

The following brilliant travel guide is brought to you by
Ms. Gracie Barrie, check her out on Instagram: @standbyflygirl

My memories of Jordan are steeped in pale sunlight and the smell of fresh mint, in salt crystals and shisha smoke escaping through windows. I was lucky enough to wake up one January morning and find myself in a sprawling city of sandy colored houses and minarets marking the seven hills that make up Amman, the capital city of Jordan. The stories you hear of Arab hospitality are not myth. Everywhere I went I was welcomed with open arms and a desire to share an ancient culture. I left with that same desire instilled in me, to share the culture of a people so often misunderstood in the west. These people are grouped together under one brusque stereotype, when in reality there are millions of nuanced beauties of Jordanian and Arab culture. I found myself in Jordan because it is the home of one of my good friends and former college roommate. Zara and I met when we were both bright-faced freshman in our dorm at Boston University. Ever since then, Zara has been urging me to come and visit her in Jordan. As an early graduation gift, another good friend, Caroline, and I took the 5,000 mile journey across the ocean to finally open our minds and hearts to the culture that we had heard so much about for the past 4 years.

For those who are surprised that I took a vacation to the Middle East, let me just say that I never felt unsafe in all my time in Jordan. Jordan is a country surrounded by conflict. Its neighbors to the west, Palestine and Israel, have been fighting for more than 60 years in a war that has no end in sight, a war that causes sorrow on both sides and for thousands around the world. To the east lies Iraq, another land that has not known the definition of peace for many years. Jordan’s northern neighbor is the most well-known in today’s news, Syria. Hundreds of Syrians stream across the border every day to seek the protection of Jordan’s sturdy bones, escaping a number of tragedies including relentless bombings by a corrupt government, impassioned recruitment from militant groups, and misguided foreign intervention. One would think the stability of Jordan would be rocked by its tumultuous neighbors, but there is a strength in the land and the people that impresses upon any visitor. I encourage everyone who has a passion for experiencing foreign cultures and exploring a new land to visit.

My non-stop flight from Chicago O’Hare on Royal Jordanian landed around 5 pm in Amman after 16 hours in the air. Upon our arrival, we set out with Zara to do what we would spend approximately 70% of our time in Jordan doing: eating. Amman is bursting with beautiful restaurants and delicious meals to be had. One of my favorites was on our first morning. We visited a falafel shop in the heart of downtown Amman, Falafel Hashem. It was filled with families with young children, teenagers probably playing hooky from school, and everyone in between. The falafel was unreal, the hummus and mint tea soothing to a weary traveler. It is a must-stop in Amman, a real local spot with extremely reasonable prices, a laid back atmosphere and outdoor seating. For dessert we went around the corner and got knafeh from Habiba sweets. Also located in the heart of downtown through a side alley, Habiba always has a line of hungry Jordanians snaking around the door, waiting to get their hands on the sugar-soaked cheese pastry. I fell madly in love with knafeh. I would eat it every day for the rest of my life if possible, but I know it will never taste as good as that first bite in an alley in Amman.
An Amman Travel Guide
There is no shortage of things to do in Amman. The easiest way to get around is by car. Taxis are cheap and there is even a branch of Uber in the city, but it’s best to get a local to take you around or hire a car. The streets are narrow and winding up and over the hills but relatively easy to navigate on foot. One of the main tourist areas is Rainbow Street, which is also a favorite of locals.  It’s filled with shops for anything from souvenirs to household goods. I popped into a random hardware store to find some Arabic coffee makers for a cheaper price than I would get at a tourist store. There’s a beautiful glassware shop that has some pretty good sales on small tea glasses, great souvenirs if you’re confident in your wrapping and packing ability. If the shopping tires you out stop in to Turtlegreen for some free WiFi and wide variety of tea blends (and some cute pet turtles!). Just off of Rainbow Street is one of my favorite places in Amman, Books@cafe. The downstairs area of this space is a bookstore selling both Arab and English books, new and used. Climb the stairs and you’re transported to a trendy cafe with tons of enticing menu choices that include Arab and Western specialties. Sit down with a book and enjoy shisha, coffee, tea, beer (Carakale is Jordan’s first micro brew) or wine. Plenty of young Jordanians are scattered around every corner of the lounge. In the summer there’s a great terrace with a sneaky view of the city.

One of the best neighborhoods to wander through is Weibdeh. If you’re traveling alone, it is safe to walk through without much precaution and has a burgeoning scene of cool shops and restaurants. It is the so-called Brooklyn of Amman. Start at Rakwet Arab cafe for a delicious breakfast of manakish, an Arab version of pizza often topped with fresh cheese or za’atar (or both!), and Arab coffee. The inside of this cafe is cozy and nostalgic with old photos from Lebanon and Jordan hanging on the walls and a number of crumpled magazines on shelves. After lazing through a meal, wander the streets and find yourself at Darat al-Funun Gallery. This inspiring gallery is located in an old, spacious house and hosts exhibits of numerous Arab artists. When we arrived, the gallery was mostly closed in preparation for an upcoming show, but we ran into a groundskeeper who proudly showed us around every nook and cranny of the space. He spoke only Arabic, but we were lucky enough to have Zara with us to translate. It is my sincere belief that even if it was just Caroline and I, two white Americans, the man would have shown us around and given us the same tour. His pride in the work done at Darat al Funun was evident even through a language barrier. He hailed from Nablus, Palestine and showed us the beautiful work he had done in decorating one of the rooms in traditional Nablus style. There is a ruined Byzantine church on the grounds and seemingly endless flow of beautiful gardens draping down the hill. A cafe located on one of the terraces overlooks the city, stop here for some freshly squeezed orange juice or a cup of rose water tea and wait for the call to prayer to echo through the hills from every mosque in the city. It is not hard to find peace in this place.
An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting

After a mindful respite from the bustle of the city, head back out for some shopping. Jobedu has a shop in Weibdeh selling shirts and knickknacks with references to Arab pop culture. Pick up an Um Kalthoum “Habibi” sweatshirt for your collection and support local artists in doing so. Hop in a cab and continue your shopping on the neighboring hill at Wild Jordan, the home of the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. The newly renovated building has a cafe, an information center for planning nature excursions all over the country, and a shop promoting local artisans. It also has a great view of the city and the Citadel. The Amman Citadel is a collection of ruins on top of the central hill of Amman from numerous cultures that held power over the city throughout the years. There is also a great, yet tiny, museum on the top that holds archaeological relics from our oldest prehistoric ancestors all the way to the Umayyad’s. The Roman Amphitheater is also worth a visit, although if you are planning to make your way to Jerash (which you should) then you might be able to skip it. A few other places in Amman that are worth a visit include:

Dar al-Anda – almost next door to Darat al Funun, this gallery also specializes in contemporary Arab artists.

Nabad art gallery – another gallery space down the street from Wild Jordan. It’s peaceful courtyard provides a place to breathe away from the city, if only for a second.

Shams el Balad – a beautiful cafe with amazing Turkish coffee and unique takes on traditional Arab food. Try the knafeh cheesecake cup!

The Soap House – If you’re looking for high-quality, uniquely scented, Dead Sea products to bring home, this hidden spot is just the place. Down a hill off of Rainbow Street this special spot might be a bit of a hunt but it’s worth it. The salt scrubs make your skin softer than you’ve ever felt it before, and it’s not sky-high pricing.

Bazar Alibaba Cave – if, like me, your favorite souvenirs are old antiques, then this minuscule shop is for you. The owner speaks a bit of English and is willing to bargain. His shop is a wonderland of old patches, stone and ceramic trinkets, and remnants from wars and Jordan’s history. This spot is located right downtown and if you’re not looking you’ll miss it. Look them up on Facebook for a rough address.

An Amman Travel Guide, RebeccaWanderlusting
Any words I write here truly cannot do this place justice. My trip was blessed with good luck, a local friend, and beautiful people. But regardless of if you know someone in Jordan or not I believe that if you’re open and adventurous some of the people you meet there could become your last-minute guide and lifelong friends. It is a culture that longs to be shared with others, especially those who are unfamiliar with it. I left Jordan with an inspired mind and a full heart. I’m hoping that my stories have lit a fire that won’t be satisfied until you feel the Jordanian sun on your face. Yalla, let’s go.

My Current Bucket List

If you’re an avid traveler, chances are good that your bucket list is an ever-changing thing.  I get it, it’s hard to nail down places you want to go in an orderly fashion when there is a constant stream of new options coming at you at light speed.  It doesn’t take more than a pretty photograph or a good write up to make me when to set oof to whatever destination is being advertised.  I suppose that’s what they mean when they say wanderlust.  There are some constants, but the destinations on the low end of my travel bucket list get swapped out daily.  If I had to choose, absolutely had to, my current travel bucket list would include the following:

  1. Machu Picchu, Peru – Hopefully, I will be crossing this one off my list this year!  I would love to spend a month or two exploring Lima, Cusco and hiking to Machu Picchu.  Peru is such a beautiful country, and I can not wait to explore it.

    Machu Picchu
    Photo Courtesy of the Peru Travel Website
  2. Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada – There are seriously no bad photos of this place.  Every single one I see makes me want to jump in and climb those mountains.  Banff National Park would be the perfect endpoint to a road trip across Canada.

    Banff National Park
    Photo Courtesy of Canada’s National Park Website
  3. Paris, France – Paris is always the dream, isn’t it?  Not only is it a gorgeous, historic and cultural destination, but I would love to just eat cheese and baguettes and drink wine for every meal, always.  I’ve been day-dreaming of getting a one way ticket and wandering around Paris until I’m good and ready to come home.

    Paris, France
    Photo Courtesy of The Paris Tourism Website
  4. Halong Bay, Vietnam – Vietnam in general has fascinated me for a long time, and Halong Bay, specifically, is drawing me in.  This beautiful paradise in the north of Vietnam seems like the perfect escape.  Jungles, Caves, Cruises, Kayaking… I am in.

    Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
    Photo Courtesy of The Halong Bay Tourism Website
  5. Marrakech, Morocco – Ever since I read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho a few years ago, I have romanticized Morocco.  It’s so colorful and different than any other place I’ve ever been.  I want to try all of the cuisine, shop the markets and I’m determined to ride a camel.  I need to go there actually, it’s a must.

    Marrakech, Morroco
    Photo Courtesy of The Morocco Tourism Website
  6. Copenhagen Denmark – Is there anything more charming than the architecture in Copenhagen?  In fact, the whole city has me so enchanted, I feel like I should buy the plane ticket right now.  The colorful buildings, the boats in the canal, the castles… sign me up!

    Copenhagen, Denmark
    Photo Courtesy of The Visit Copenhagen Website
  7. Acadia National Park, Maine –I am a little bit obsessed with Maine.  It looks so beautiful and I love seafood and I LOVE Stephen King (most of his stories are set in Maine).  Acadia National Park is gorgeous and I’d love to set myself up in a cabin by the sea there and write.
    Acadia National Park, Maine
    Photo Courtesy of The National Park Service Website

    I’m sure they’ll be different tomorrow, or joined by more choices, but for now I will continue to dream about them.  Stay tuned for more bucket list ideas in a new installment on rebeccawanderlusting for Wanderlust Wednesday.

 

What destination is on your bucket list? How often do the destinations change?

Top Ten Places to Be in Shanghai

Top Ten Places to Be in Shanghai

Shanghai Selfie, Peninsula Shanghai, China

I loved being in Shanghai.  The people, the food, the sights…everything was, to quote one of my travel companions “amaaaaaazing”.  I know I already wrote a quite lengthy, two part account of my time there, but I also know not everyone likes a novel of a blog.  In case you are planning a trip to Shanghai, or would like an abridged version of my adventures there, I’ve compiled a list of the top ten things to see/do in Shanghai.  Here they are, unceremoniously and in no particular order:

  1. Yuyuan Garden: This is a Shanghai must. The promenade that surrounds the garden alone is a sight to behold, and the garden itself is completely enchanting.  The history behind this area is so rich.  If you have time, go to the tea house towards the middle of the garden and enjoy a traditional tea ceremony, definitely do it. There is a fee to get into the garden, but not a very large one.
    Yu Garden, Shanghai China
  2. Jing’an Temple or Jade Buddha Temple:  One, or both, of these gorgeous temples really need to be on your Shanghai to-do list. I did both of these Buddhist temples in the span of a few hours. However, if you are working with a limited time frame, Jing’an Temple is much easier to reach using public transportation.  Both temples require a small admission fee, which was a little less than $10.
    Jing'An Buddhist Temple, Shanghai, China
  3. Water Towns: There are quite a few water towns within two hours of Shanghai. The one I visited was called Zhujiajiao, which was about an hour away from our hotel on The Bund.  We took a private tour there, but it’s also possible to take public transportation there as well.  Zhujiajiao was breathtaking and there was much to do there, including boat rides, shopping, history tours and eating!
    Zhujiajiao Water Town, China
  4. Nanjing Road/People’s Square: This is another must see. During the day, this crowded, tiled pedestrian walkway is a shopper’s paradise filled with independent stores and malls to explore.  At night, it almost looks like the Vegas strip with its neon lights aglow.  It also is a hub of restaurants to meet all tastes (most of the great ones are on the higher floors of the malls).  People’s Square, at the South end of Nanjing Road, is a public park and hub of activity, including dancing, karaoke, and Chinese Moms comparing pictures of their children in order to find their soulmates.
    Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China
  5. Oriental Pearl TV Tower: The Oriental Pearl is one of the most recognized buildings in the Shanghai Skyline. It’s gorgeous from a distance and from within.  You do have to pay to get into the tower, but once you were in, there was much to see.  There was a normal look out at the top, as well as a glass-floored one.  There is an arcade, a roller coaster, and a mall at the bottom.  If you are coming from the Puxi side of the HuangPu river, I’d recommend taking the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel to get under the river to the PuDong side, where the TV Tower is located.
    Oriental Pearl Tower, Shanghai, China
  6. Tianzifang: Tianzifang is a hip, fun labyrinth of shops and restaurants located in the French Quarter. The shops are a combination of artsy, chic stores, cheap souvenirs, and fun knickknacks.  There are many restaurants, bars, and snack shops to keep you nourished as you navigate your way through the twists and turns.  Tianzifang is easily reached by public transportation or by taxi.
  7. Xintiandi: An area similar to the last mentioned, Xintiandi is like Tianzifang’s sophisticated, older cousin. The stores there are more fashionable (aka: expensive) and the restaurants are more of the sit-down variety.  This area is beautiful and definitely worth a walk through, if not a night out. If you do find yourself in this area for dinner, try Din Tai Fung for their delicious dumplings.
    Xintiandi, China
  8. Yang’s Dumplings: The home of the best pan-fried dumplings I’ve ever tasted. The noodle soup (mung bean noodle with curry beef) was superb.  It’s hard to get a table there, but even to eat them standing up (a clumsy task at best) would suffice.  The location I visited was off of Beijing Road, a short walk from The Bund.  I would literally take the 16 hour flight back to Shanghai just to have Yang’s Dumplings again.
  9. Confucius Temple: Though for some this may serve as a religious space, it’s meant more for wisdom than spirituality. This stunning area is a brilliant look into Confucius’s teachings.  Though it had to be rebuilt after the Cultural Revolution, it is now beautifully maintained and can be toured with student-guides who volunteer there.  The temple is also reachable through public transportation.
    Confucius Temple, Shanghai, China
  10. The Bund: I’m very partial to the old European architecture of The Bund, because it’s what I called my home base for my two weeks in Shanghai. I frequented its perfect view of the skyline almost daily, and enjoyed the Chinese New Year fireworks standing on its solid stone walkway.  Either way, it’s a piece of Shanghai that shouldn’t be missed.
    The Bund, Shanghai Skyline, China

Please take these as one traveler’s look into the big picture that is Shanghai.  If you find yourself in this magnificent city in the near or distant future, give it my fondest greetings.  Happy #wanderlustwednesday !

Top Ten Places to Be in Shanghai, China

My Favorite Shanghai, China Destinations

Shanghai Selfie, Peninsula Shanghai, China

I loved being in Shanghai.  The people, the food, the sights…everything was, to quote one of my travel companions “amaaaaaazing”.  I know I already wrote a quite lengthy, two part account of my time there, but I also know not everyone likes a novel of a blog.  In case you are planning a trip to Shanghai, or would like an abridged version of my adventures there, I’ve compiled a list of the top ten things to see/do in Shanghai.  Here they are, unceremoniously and in no particular order:

  1. Yuyuan Garden: This is a Shanghai must. The promenade that surrounds the garden alone is a sight to behold, and the garden itself is completely enchanting.  The history behind this area is so rich.  If you have time, go to the tea house towards the middle of the garden and enjoy a traditional tea ceremony, definitely do it. There is a fee to get into the garden, but not a very large one.
    Yu Garden, Shanghai China
  2. Jing’an Temple or Jade Buddha Temple:  One, or both, of these gorgeous temples really need to be on your Shanghai to-do list. I did both of these Buddhist temples in the span of a few hours. However, if you are working with a limited time frame, Jing’an Temple is much easier to reach using public transportation.  Both temples require a small admission fee, which was a little less than $10.
    Jing'An Buddhist Temple, Shanghai, China
  3. Water Towns: There are quite a few water towns within two hours of Shanghai. The one I visited was called Zhujiajiao, which was about an hour away from our hotel on The Bund.  We took a private tour there, but it’s also possible to take public transportation there as well.  Zhujiajiao was breathtaking and there was much to do there, including boat rides, shopping, history tours and eating!
    Zhujiajiao Water Town, China
  4. Nanjing Road/People’s Square: This is another must see. During the day, this crowded, tiled pedestrian walkway is a shopper’s paradise filled with independent stores and malls to explore.  At night, it almost looks like the Vegas strip with its neon lights aglow.  It also is a hub of restaurants to meet all tastes (most of the great ones are on the higher floors of the malls).  People’s Square, at the South end of Nanjing Road, is a public park and hub of activity, including dancing, karaoke, and Chinese Moms comparing pictures of their children in order to find their soulmates.
    Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China
  5. Oriental Pearl TV Tower: The Oriental Pearl is one of the most recognized buildings in the Shanghai Skyline. It’s gorgeous from a distance and from within.  You do have to pay to get into the tower, but once you were in, there was much to see.  There was a normal look out at the top, as well as a glass-floored one.  There is an arcade, a roller coaster, and a mall at the bottom.  If you are coming from the Puxi side of the HuangPu river, I’d recommend taking the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel to get under the river to the PuDong side, where the TV Tower is located.
    Oriental Pearl Tower, Shanghai, China
  6. Tianzifang: Tianzifang is a hip, fun labyrinth of shops and restaurants located in the French Quarter. The shops are a combination of artsy, chic stores, cheap souvenirs, and fun knickknacks.  There are many restaurants, bars, and snack shops to keep you nourished as you navigate your way through the twists and turns.  Tianzifang is easily reached by public transportation or by taxi.
  7. Xintiandi: An area similar to the last mentioned, Xintiandi is like Tianzifang’s sophisticated, older cousin. The stores there are more fashionable (aka: expensive) and the restaurants are more of the sit-down variety.  This area is beautiful and definitely worth a walk through, if not a night out. If you do find yourself in this area for dinner, try Din Tai Fung for their delicious dumplings.
    Xintiandi, China
  8. Yang’s Dumplings: The home of the best pan-fried dumplings I’ve ever tasted. The noodle soup (mung bean noodle with curry beef) was superb.  It’s hard to get a table there, but even to eat them standing up (a clumsy task at best) would suffice.  The location I visited was off of Beijing Road, a short walk from The Bund.  I would literally take the 16 hour flight back to Shanghai just to have Yang’s Dumplings again.
  9. Confucius Temple: Though for some this may serve as a religious space, it’s meant more for wisdom than spirituality. This stunning area is a brilliant look into Confucius’s teachings.  Though it had to be rebuilt after the Cultural Revolution, it is now beautifully maintained and can be toured with student-guides who volunteer there.  The temple is also reachable through public transportation.
    Confucius Temple, Shanghai, China
  10. The Bund: I’m very partial to the old European architecture of The Bund, because it’s what I called my home base for my two weeks in Shanghai. I frequented its perfect view of the skyline almost daily, and enjoyed the Chinese New Year fireworks standing on its solid stone walkway.  Either way, it’s a piece of Shanghai that shouldn’t be missed.
    The Bund, Shanghai Skyline, China

Please take these as one traveler’s look into the big picture that is Shanghai.  If you find yourself in this magnificent city in the near or distant future, give it my fondest greetings.  Happy #wanderlustwednesday !