Washington Harbor, Washington DC, US Travel

Washington, D.C. – Part 2

On my second full day in Washington, D.C., I awoke early to start another busy day.  My first stop was Founding Farmers, a farm-to-table restaurant downtown.  I ordered the strawberries and cream waffle with a side of sausage and a latte to round it out.  The food was delicious and fresh and the staff was really friendly.  I ate every little bit of my meal, and it was the perfect amount to give me the energy to walk around for the rest of the day.  I intended to head straight to the U.S. Holocaust Memorial, but I took a slight detour to the Renwick Gallery.  I had passed it the day before and the line was down the block; this time there was no line so of course I couldn’t not go in.  This gallery also had free admission, as it is an extension of The National Gallery.
Renwick Gallery6
Once inside, the woman at the information desk handed me a guide and sent me on my way.  Each of the 9 featured artists had their own separate room for their installation, and I walked through them all in awe.  The installations were beyond gorgeous and each had its own thought-provoking message.  My favorite was “In the Midnight Garden” by Jennifer Angus, which was made mostly of insects a la 7th grade bug collection.
Renwick Gallery5.jpg
I also really loved Janet Echelman’s colorful piece in the main room upstairs which consisted of a colorful net strung up from the ceiling.
Renwick Gallery3
Once I spent a sufficient time admiring each room, I headed out into the sunny day and walked towards the U.S. Holocaust Memorial.


The Holocaust Memorial was obviously a very emotional experience.  I choked up immediately upon entering the actual museum, and had to run into the bathroom to fix my face.  Everyone walked through the museum in silence.  There were three levels that moved seamlessly in chronological order.  It took about two hours to make it through, and it was heart wrenching, but also informative.  I certainly left with a different perspective and gratitude.  Next, I went to the National Air and Space Museum to see the Amelia Earhart exhibit.  The whole museum is very impressive.


There are airplanes and miscellaneous space ships and equipment everywhere – hanging from the ceiling, coming out of the walls, stretching from floor to ceiling.  Amelia is one of my favorites and I was surprised to see her exhibit was relatively small compared to others.  It was still great though.  I also really liked the Time and Navigation Exhibit, which detailed compasses and GPS technology in all its stages.  I wandered around the museum, peaking at things that caught my interested, like walking through the full sized Space Station and The Wright Brothers exhibit.  Then I moved on to the Library of Congress.  The outside of the Thomas Jefferson Building of the Library is gorgeous, much like most of the other buildings in DC, but the inside is stunning.
Library of Congress.jpg

Library of Congress2

I viewed the jealousy-inducing reading room from above and checked out Thomas Jefferson’s personal Library, as well as the Civil Rights exhibit right next to it.  I couldn’t get over how beautiful the ceiling and walls were.  I spent most of my time in the library looking up.  By then, my stomach was telling me it was time to move on to We, The Pizza just down the street.  I wanted to go there because it’s owned by Spike Mendelsohn, one of my favorite contestants on Top Chef.  Sadly, he wasn’t there, but I did thoroughly enjoyed my sausage and sweet pepper pizza.  The restaurant was really cute, with the pizzas all lined up in front and a large seating area upstairs.


From there, I walked the few blocks to Folger’s Shakespeare Library, where I had just missed the last tour of the day.  The section that was open to the public without a tour was interesting, but small.  I’d say it’s worth visiting IF HI Washington DC2.jpgyou do the tour or if you get tickets to see a play in the beautiful theater there.  I took a cab back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and check into the hostel where I was staying that night.  The Hosteling International DC was just a short walk away, and the lovely front desk staff checked me into my private room (shared bathroom).  I noticed that the hostel offered nightly group activities, which I unfortunately had to decline but it did look like a good time!  I took the bus to Georgetown, which was about thirty minutes away.  I was trying to do some off-the-beaten path things in DC, but it seemed that I was stuck firmly on the path.  Oh well, they’re popular for a reason.  I got off the bus at M street and found myself in a very ritzy area.  Shops like Banana Republic, Tory Burch and Lululemon lined the streets.  It
reminded me of the Gold Coast back in Chicago.  I Olivia Macaron.jpgwaltzed around a bit, stopping into Olivia Macaron to grab a latte and a champagne macaron.  The macaron was delicious and the coffee kept me warm as I continued to wander.  The small macaron shop was kiddie corner from Georgetown Cupcakes, a bakery made famous by TLC.  I didn’t go in.  I worked at a cupcake place in college and haven’t Washington Harbor2.jpgbeen able to stomach them since.  The houses in Georgetown were beautiful and I had fun admiring them as I walked.  I wanted to make my way to Washington Harbor so I walked down Wisconsin Street towards the water.  There were some cute stores along the way that I’ve not seen back home, including Redz Trading thrift store and American/Holiday, which had cute clothes, jewelry, and housewares.  As I walked towards the harbor, the sun bean to set and once I arrived at the Potomac River, the sky was a mixture of blue, orange and pink.  There were restaurants and a skating rink at the harbor, but I walked along the river instead of partaking in them.  I had planned on going to Right proper Brewing for Dinner, so I walked along the river and then up through the George Washington University campus to get to the metro.
Washington Harbor
The ride was quick and the brewery was close to the train stop, however, when I arrived I realized it was closed for a private event.  I was pretty bummed because I was looking forward to trying a local brewery, but I moved on anyways.  Shaw’s Tavern was one block away, so that is where I ended up.  The restaurant featured upscale bar food and a lively atmosphere.  I ordered a DC Brau Public Ale and the Shaw’s Burger.


It turned out to be trivia night there, so I stayed and listened to the questions.  The beer and burger were so perfect and the bar crowd was full of good vibes.  I decided to walk home from there, which was a bit of an unnerving experience.  However, I did arrive safely, albeit very sore and tired from walking all day.  I showered in the public girl’s bathroom, which was clean enough, with thin curtains separating the showers from each other.  When I finally lay down on the bed to read, I realized that it squawked every time I moved even a tiny bit.  This set the tone for the rest of the evening; I didn’t get very much sleep, especially because I very stupidly got to thinking about the movie the Babadook (have you seen it? Don’t watch it, it’s scary).  Anyways, the next morning I opted out of the complimentary hostel continental breakfast and walked over to Astro Doughnuts.
Mapple Bacon Doughnut - Astro Doughnuts.jpg
It was rainy and cold, but luckily it was a short walk.  I got a maple bacon doughnut and a coffee and sat under the awning to enjoy it.  The doughnut was a perfect combination of sweet and salty.  It was so good.  The rest of the morning was a chain of unsuccessful attempts to see one more thing before leaving.  Everything was closed, not reopening until it was time for me to head to the airport or under construction until 2017 (thanks a lot Trump).  So I wound up at Momfuku Milk Bar for some of their famous crack pie and yet more coffee.  The pie was aptly named and so delicious.  It was sweet and caramel-y and almost too rich to finish, not that I didn’t.


Soon it was time to check out from the hostel and take the blue line to DCA.  It took only 30 minutes to make the trip, only to be delayed for three hours.  By the time we finally boarded, there were only twenty people who waited it out.  On the other side of the flight, I took a different blue line back home, happy to be home but grateful for a fantastic trip.

Flight Home.jpg

Thank you, DC, for a wonderful time!

Have you been to Washington, D.C.? Where was your favorite place there?

Washington, D.C. – Part 1

I arrived at O’Hare obscenely early as per usual; I’m always early.  I was afraid there would be a long line for security (there wasn’t), so I wound up sitting at a bar near my gate with a mimosa, a full hour before I was due to board.
Airport Mimosa
The plane landed twenty minutes ahead of schedule and it took me forty minutes and two trains (one yellow and one red) to reach Dupont Circle.  I was to walk to my hotel from there.  Unfortunately, I walked to the wrong one.  Who knew there were two Courtyard Marriotts within twenty minutes from each other?  Once I was checked into the correct hotel, I quickly changed out of my plane clothes and headed back out.  The National Geographic Museum was just around the corner from the hotel, so I figured it was a good place to start.  The museums was housed in a large building emblazoned with National Geographic Society above the doors.
National Geographic Building.jpg
The entry fee was $15 and there were three main exhibits.  One was The Photo Ark, which included many photos different species of animals, many of which had been endangered at some point in time.  Another exhibit featured the history and lives of Crocodilians with National Geographic Museumlive reptiles and interactive croc facts.  The last was ocean related and included photography and videos from numerous deep sea exhibitions.  The museum was very visually appealing, but I wish there was a little more to see.  The exhibits were beautiful and informative though, and there was a great gift shop.  From the museum, I walked back over to Dupont Circle to check out Kramerbooks & Café.  They had a great selection and unique layout (plus a lot of travel books which you know I loved!).  I ended up getting an Anthony Bourdain book because I couldn’t help myself.  Though I could have browsed for a few more hours at least, my stomach was telling me it was time for dinner, so I headed down the brown stone lined Q Street towards Le Diplomate.  This French restaurant was everything I wanted it to be.
Washington D.C., Le Deiplomate, French Restaurant
The beautifully lit atmosphere was warm and welcoming.  Despite being decidedly less fancy than the other patrons, I felt 100% at home.  I ordered the Scallops Nicoise and stuck with water to cut costs, their wine list was quite expensive.  A bread basket appeared soon after I placed my order, which I dug right into (the cranberry bread was delicious!).  I happily read “Medium Raw” until my meal arrived and I could no longer concentrate on anything other than the scallops.  They sat atop a bed of orzo, tomatoes, onions and peas, with a pesto sauce underneath.  It was a lemony and salty and the scallops were perfectly cooked.  I loved it so much.  When the waiter came back, I could only nod in blissful silence as he removed my now empty plate from the table.  After I had paid and left, I walked around the area for a while, taking in the pretty houses and cheerful restaurants.
Kramerbooks & Afterwords
Eventually I wandered back to Kramerbooks, this time to try the café.  I ordered a glass of wine and a slice of apple crumble pie, which they served with 2 spoons, making me miss Mike instantly.  The pie was good and I enjoyed it on their covered porch.  Once I was
thoroughly stuffed with pie, I walked back to the hotel.  I was feeling a little melancholy on my first night in this new city, so I Peregrine Coffee Iced Latte.jpgfelt the best way to remedy this was a bubble bath and to make big plans for the next day.  I started early, leaving the hotel at 8:30am and hopped on the blue line towards the Eastern Market.  When I arrived, the market wasn’t quite bustling enough yet, so I grabbed an iced latte from Pelegrine Coffee and walked around the neighborhood.  Fortunately, I ran into the Capitol Hill location of Ted’s Bulletin, a restaurant I really wanted to try.  One may be a loneliest number, but it is certainly a convenient one when trying to be sat at a popular breakfast restaurant on a Sunday Morning.  At my tiny table for one, I ordered coffee, bacon, hash browns and a salted caramel (homemade) pop tart, on the waiter’s recommendation.  The “Ted Tarts” are what drew me to the restaurant in the first place, so I was very excited to try it. The bacon and hash browns were pretty run of the mill, but the ted tart was amazing.  The outside was flakey and delicious and the filling was rich and caramel-y.  It went with the coffee perfectly and I relished every bit.
Teds Tarts - Ted's Bulletin
After I finished, I walked back to the market, which was a little livelier at that point.  I love rummaging, so the flea market portion was exactly what I wanted it to be.  There were knickknacks, art, antiques, clothing, and food stalls both inside and outside.  Inside the market building, there were butchers, fruit stands, bakeries, and fresh flowers.  Locals and tourists alike were doing their grocery shopping and haggling over steaks and dozens of baked goods.


Capitol Hill Books stood next to the market and I was drawn inside by its front window, which was literally stacked with books.  The inside of the shop was no different.  The shelves were chock-full of books, stacked every which way, but somehow still organized.  It was two levels of systematic chaos with nooks for reading and a great used book selection.  I was particularly drawn to their Graham Greene selection, which required patience and a balancing act to get through.


I was only a twenty minute walk from the National Mall and the Smithsonian Museums, so I headed that way.  The first thing I came upon (that was open on a Sunday) was the U.S. Botanical Gardens, so I went in.  One of the best things about D.C. is that all of the Smithsonian Museums and Galleries and all of the Monuments are free.  The Botanical Gardens was no exception.  The gardens were split into categories, my favorites were the orchids and the desert plants.  It really is a gorgeous place to walk around.

US Botanical Gardens.jpg

US Botanical Gardens 4.jpg
As soon as I started to head towards the Mall, it started pouring.  Luckily, I was very near to the National Gallery, which is where I sought shelter from the rain.  What a beautiful place to spend a rainy afternoon!  I’m no art buff, but I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the galleries.  Needless to say, the artwork was breathtaking and the building itself was gorgeous.  I especially loved the Van Gogh paintings, as well as this painting by Hendrik Willem Mesdag:

National Gallery 3.jpg

One of the museum guides pointed me in the direction of sculpture garden, so that is where I headed next.  It was a fun walk through, with a cute café and ice rink at the center.  National Gallery Sculpture Garden.jpgI made my way through, stopping to take in each sculpture.  Once I came to the end, I walked down the street to the Museum of Natural History and the Museum of American History.  One of the benefits of free museum admissions is that you can pick and choose which exhibits you see without feeling like you have to see every single one because you didn’t pay for them.  At the Museum of Natural History, I very much enjoyed the dinosaur exhibit and the “Wilderness Forever” photography exhibit that showed many of the National Parks.  At the American History Museum, many of the exhibits were closed for renovations unfortunately.  However, I did love the First Lady exhibition, which featured fashions and facts about the nation’s great women.  The National Mall is just beyond the Smithsonian Museums, so I kept walking towards the Washington Monument.
Washington Monument.jpg
From the top of the hill where it sits, I took in the city sights, and got my first glimpse of the Lincoln Memorial.  However, by the time I made it over there (it’s a deceptively far walk) I was hungry and getting crabby.  I had been walking for hours at this point, which really is the best way to see a city, but also builds up an appetite.  There were no
restaurants to be seen, so I settled for a hot dog from one of the nearby refreshment stands.  After I stuffed my face, I climbed the marble steps to see Abe.  The upside of travelling to D.C. in the slow season is there aren’t as many tourists, however the downside, for me at least, was that a lot of things were under construction to be ready for the summer.  For example, the reflecting pool was drained, the World War II Monument was under construction, some of the exhibits were roped off, the list goes on.  Luckily, I had seen some of these attractions the first time I was in D.C. in 8th grade, when our teachers dragged us to every single memorial and monument, our disposable cameras in hand.  This time around, I was taking pictures with my iPhone, having strangers get a few shots with me in them.  The Lincoln Memorial was humbling and inspiring.  I walked around the top, taking in the view from all angles.  This was one of the things I really didn’t want to miss, so I’m glad I was able to see Mr. Lincoln.
Lincoln Memorial.jpg
The Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial and FDR Memorial were just a little ways away, so that’s where I headed next.  The MLK Jr. Memorial was simple but moving, including only a statue carved in stone and a single quote on the side: “Out of the mountain of despair, a stone of hope.”
MLK Memorial.jpg
I moved on down the path to the FDR Memorial, which was recommended to me by Rebecca of Curiosity and a Carry On.  It was one of my favorites of the day, being less crowded and peaceful.  There were quotes and statues throughout the memorial, including a statue of Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt (the only one dedicated to a first lady).  Unfortunately the supposedly beautiful fountains were turned off for the season, but I still very much enjoyed wandering through the memorial.  My favorite FDR quote was: “In these days of difficulty, we Americans everywhere must and shall choose the path of social justice… the path of faith, the path of hope, and the path of love towards our fellow man.”
FDR Memorial.jpg
I walked back to the hotel from there, passing the gorgeous Eisenhower Executive Office Building, as well as the White House.  It is awe-inspiring to walk through this city of such regal architecture.  Everywhere I turned there was a gorgeous building with columns and flags, or a stately statue depicting men on horses or famous generals.  It made each walk an adventure in itself.
Eisenhower Executive Office Building.jpg
Once I got back to the hotel, I showered and rested up for a night out in Adams Morgan, which was described to me as a hip, up and coming area.  My first stop was Smash Records, a punk record store, where I bought Mike a Bad Brains (a famous DC punk band) Album and browsed their small selection of soul records.

Smash Records
From there, I moved over to Idle Time Bookstore.  This dual level used books store has a great selection of used books and gifts and a friendly staff.  I browsed through their shelves for a while before rushing off to catch the happy hour specials at Mandu.  Mandu is a Korean restaurant, and they have happy hour 7 days a week from 4pm-7pm that offers Chap Chae - Mandu.jpghalf priced beer, wine, sojutinis and mandu dumplings.  I ordered an assortment of the dumplings, 2 each of pork, shrimp and vegetable.  They were pan-fried and so scrumptious.  My entrée was chap chae, potato noodles with vegetables and beef.  It came with a mound of something interesting on top, and when I asked the waiter, he confirmed my worst fears: eggs.  I calmly scraped them to the side and dug into the delicious noodle dish, which was served with traditional Korean condiments.  It was a pretty cheap dinner, thanks to the happy hour, so I decided to take myself out to a jazz bar I spotted back in Adams Morgan, called Columbia Station.  At first, the bar was a little empty.  The band, The Peter Edelman Trio, was on a break, but the bartender assured me they’d be playing until 1am.

Columbia Station 3

I ordered a glass of wine, and he poured it up to the brim, which is precisely how I like it.  It was quiet before the band started playing again, and I could hear the chef watching TV in the kitchen.  Eventually though, once the music started, people filed in and the tables filled up.  The Peter Edelman Trio are at Columbia Station weekly and I completely understand how they earned this regular gig.
Columbia Station 2
They were fun and talented and what started out as a drums, saxophone and organ trio slowly morphed into a piano, drums, saxophone, clarinet and bass as the evening went on.  New instruments magically appeared as the bar grew more crowded.  Fast forward three glasses of wine and I’m making new friends at the bar and grooving to the music.  I left there happy and tipsy, walking back down 18th street, jazz riffs echoing in my brain.

D.C. Packing List

By this time tomorrow, I will be stepping off the plane in beautiful Washington, D.C.!  I am so excited for this trip I can barely contain myself.  The only downfall is that the weather will be only slightly warmer than it is here in Chicago.  But! There is a silver lining: packing will be a cinch since it’s all the same clothes that have been in rotation all winter.  I will admit that I bought a couple of key items for this trip, but who doesn’t like a new outfit for an upcoming vacation??  I have a tendency to over-pack, and then forget key items.  Like the time I forgot a hair brush when I went to Asheville, and instead of buying one like a normal person, I just used my fingers and put my hair up every day.  Anyways, this time around I’m trying to be very organized and sticking to the basics.  So, without further ado, below is my complete packing list for my four day trip to D.C.:

Toiletries:

  • Toothbrush + tiny toothpaste
  • Ponds Make-Up Remover Wipes
  • Hair Brush
  • Deodorant
  • Nivea Lotion
  • Curling Iron
  • Shampoo + Conditioner*

*Normally, this wouldn’t be on the list, but since I’ll be staying at a hostel one night, I’d rather be prepared than not.

Make Up for Washington D.C.

Make-Up:

  • Clinique Even Better Foundation
  • Clean Dual Rollerball Perfume
  • Bare Minerals Blush and Brush
  • Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer
  • Elf Black Eyeliner
  • Bliss Eyeshadow Palette
  • Elizabeth Arden Mascara
  • NYX, Clinique and Revlon Chubby Sticks Lipstick

Clothing for Washington D.C.

Clothing:

  • (1) Swimsuit
  • (6) Undies
  • (2) Bras
  • (1) Pair of Tights
  • (6) Pairs of Socks
  • (2) Jeans
  • (1) Sweater
  • (2) Long Sleeves
  • (1) T-Shirt
  • (1) Blouse
  • (1) Tank Top
  • (1) Dress
  • (1) Set of Pajamas
  • Scarf, Gloves + Hat

Shoes:

  • Chuck Taylors
  • Flip Flops (for the shared hostel showers and the hotel pool!)
  • Black Ankle Boots

Carry On Washington D.C.

In My Tote (Madewell Leather Zip Transport Bag):

  • Notebook
  • Pencils and Sharpener
  • Book (The Good Girl’s Guide to Getting Lost by Rachel Friedman)
  • Mophie Charger
  • Wall Charger
  • Headphones
  • Glasses
  • Sunglasses
  • Passport*
  • Purse (wallet, lipstick, keys and iPhone)

*Apparently, my Illinois Driver’s License is no longer valid as identification to get on the plane, but passports always work!

I think that should do it!  See you tomorrow, D.C.!

What are your packing must-haves?  What’s the best packing method?

DC Packing List

By this time tomorrow, I will be stepping off the plane in beautiful Washington, D.C.!  I am so excited for this trip I can barely contain myself.  The only downfall is that the weather will be only slightly warmer than it is here in Chicago.  But! There is a silver lining: packing will be a cinch since it’s all the same clothes that have been in rotation all winter.  I will admit that I bought a couple of key items for this trip, but who doesn’t like a new outfit for an upcoming vacation??  I have a tendency to over-pack, and then forget key items.  Like the time I forgot a hair brush when I went to Asheville, and instead of buying one like a normal person, I just used my fingers and put my hair up every day.  Anyways, this time around I’m trying to be very organized and sticking to the basics.  So, without further ado, below is my complete DC packing list for a four day trip:

Toiletries:

  • Toothbrush + tiny toothpaste
  • Ponds Make-Up Remover Wipes
  • Hair Brush
  • Deodorant
  • Nivea Lotion
  • Curling Iron
  • Shampoo + Conditioner*

*Normally, this wouldn’t be on the list, but since I’ll be staying at a hostel one night, I’d rather be prepared than not.

Make Up for Washington D.C.

Make-Up:

  • Clinique Even Better Foundation
  • Clean Dual Rollerball Perfume
  • Bare Minerals Blush and Brush
  • Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer
  • Elf Black Eyeliner
  • Bliss Eyeshadow Palette
  • Elizabeth Arden Mascara
  • NYX, Clinique and Revlon Chubby Sticks Lipstick

Clothing for Washington D.C.

Clothing:

  • (1) Swimsuit
  • (6) Undies
  • (2) Bras
  • (1) Pair of Tights
  • (6) Pairs of Socks
  • (2) Jeans
  • (1) Sweater
  • (2) Long Sleeves
  • (1) T-Shirt
  • (1) Blouse
  • (1) Tank Top
  • (1) Dress
  • (1) Set of Pajamas
  • Scarf, Gloves + Hat

Shoes:

  • Chuck Taylors
  • Flip Flops (for the shared hostel showers and the hotel pool!)
  • Black Ankle Boots

Carry On Washington D.C.

In My Tote (Madewell Leather Zip Transport Bag):

  • Notebook
  • Pencils and Sharpener
  • Book (The Good Girl’s Guide to Getting Lost by Rachel Friedman)
  • Mophie Charger
  • Wall Charger
  • Headphones
  • Glasses
  • Sunglasses
  • Passport*
  • Purse (wallet, lipstick, keys and iPhone)

*Apparently, my Illinois Driver’s License is no longer valid as identification to get on the plane, but passports always work!

I think that should do it!  See you tomorrow, D.C.!

What are your packing must-haves?  What’s the best packing method?

Trip Planning: Washington, D.C.

I started this year with the knowledge that I would have a six day weekend towards the end of February.  I had no idea where I was going to go during this time, but I knew I wanted to go somewhere.  It wasn’t a hard problem to solve, as I have a very long list of places I want to visit and a knack for trip planning.  I wanted to go somewhere that would be cheap to fly to, easy to get around once I was there, and that had a good amount of amazing food and interesting attractions.  Washington, D.C. fit the bill.  I’ve been there once before, way back in 8th grade.  We took a charter bus there that left from the school parking lot.  My eighth grade brain took all of the history of D.C. in one ear and out the other and focused mostly on finding those cool FBI sweatshirts with my friends so we could all match.  This time around, I’ll be going by myself and I plan to take it all in.  I’m no longer interested in hooded sweatshirts, in fact the only thing I will have in common with my 8th Grade self is my concern of when my next meal will be.  I guess I’ve been on a recent kick of returning to places I’ve visited before to better appreciate them (see “Trip Planning: San Francisco”).  I am so excited to revisit Washington, D.C.  There is so much to see and do and eat there that I just hope I have enough time to accomplish it all.  I’ll be there for three nights, staying two nights in a hotel and one night in a hostel to help keep my spending in check.  I have a very long list of things I want to accomplish while I’m there.  Here is the breakdown:

Flight:

  • American Airlines – nonstop from ORD to DCA

Lodging:

  • Courtyard Marriott
  • Hostelling International Washington, D.C.

What I want to see:

  • The National Mall, The Memorials and The White House, of course
  • The Smithsonian Museums
  • The Eastern Market
  • The Holocaust Memorial Museum
  • Georgetown, Columbia Heights, Dupont
  • The Folger Shakespeare Library
  • Glen Echo Park
  • And anything and everything else that I can fit in

What I want to eat:

  • We the Pizza (any Top Chef fans out there??)
  • Ted’s Bulletin
  • Founding Farmers
  • Dangerously Delicious Pie
  • Honestly, I could go on and on; I’m going to need to eat four meals a day to keep up with this list

I have two and a half days to do it all.  My plan of attack is to tackle the National Mall, Monuments and Museums one day and tour the neighborhoods the next day.  I am just so excited to go on this trip, and I can’t wait to explore Washington, D.C.  I’m a little bit concerned that because I’m going there in the winter, some things may not be as enjoyable.  However, I’m going to bundle up and power through to make the most of it. See you in a few weeks D.C.!

Washington, D.C. 2004
A few pictures from the first time I visited Washington, D.C., in 2004

If you have any Washington, D.C. recommendations or tips, please share!

Hiking by Candlelight

Last month, my parents asked me if I had any interest in going on a candlelit hike with them in Kettle Moraine State Park.  Of course I said yes, it sounded so intriguing.  So this past Saturday, the time came to take the Metra train out to Fox Lake and, from there, drive the 30 minutes north to Kettle Moraine.
Candlelit Hike in Kettle Moraine 5
I love Wisconsin.  Life seems simpler and more genuine there (yeah, I know, we are all watching “Making a Murderer”, but don’t let that ruin the whole state for you, ok?)  After the sun set, which happened as we drove, the temperature dropped a good ten degrees.  We bundled up in the car before going out to brave the icy weather for the hike.  At the start of the trail, there was a small lodge, surrounded by candles that were nestled into cylinders of ice.
Candlelit Hike in Kettle Moraine 2
The lodge offered some respite from the cold as well as hot chocolate and other goodies.  Around back, a bonfire burned, warming people’s fingers and lending some more light to the area.  Just beyond the hot chocolate house was the trail head, which was lined with twinkling lights.  The trail itself cut through the forest and was lined down the middle with candles in white paper bags.  It was fairly dark along the trail, save for the light coming from the interspersed candles.  The snow crunched beneath our feet and cross-country skiers whizzed by us, headlamps lighting their way.


One of my favorite things about getting out of the city and closer to nature is how crisp and clean the air is in the country.  It smells so delicious, and I breathed as deeply as I could, despite the cold I was (and still am) sporting.  About halfway through our walk, we came upon another bonfire, where we stood around to try and warm our freezing fingers.  It seemed that all the other hikers and skiers were as happy to be there as we were and there was a nice sense of community, especially around the bonfires.

Candlelit Hike in Kettle Moraine 3
We moved on down the path and came to a little clearing in the trees where the half-moon shone brightly.  It was an absolutely gorgeous evening and the candlelight added a whimsical touch.  After about an hour’s walk, we reached the end of our hike.  It really was a wonderful experience that I would absolutely recommend to anyone.  The candlelit hikes go on through the end of February in different State Parks all across Wisconsin.  You can find the complete schedule here.


After we left Kettle Moraine, we stopped by Holi Canoli in Elkhorn, WI.  Their coal-fired pizza is so damn delicious.  We had the Margherita pizza with prosciutto and kalamata olives paired with some Montepulciano wine.  It was perfect.  So, if you do find yourself catching one of the candlelit hikes in Wisconsin and it happens to be at Kettle Moraine State Park (the next one is on February 6), stop into Holi Canoli too, and you won’t be disappointed.Holi Canoli Coal Fired Pizza

A big thank you to my parents for taking me along with them on what has become their yearly tradition.  They are the original wanderlusters, and without their adventurous spirits I’d never be the travel-crazed woman I am today.  So, thanks guys – for everything.

Candlelit Hike in Kettle Moraine 6

2015 Review & 2016 Goals

We made it; it’s almost a new year, full of new opportunities and adventures!  This year was pretty amazing in terms of travel!  I am by no means a nomad by trade, however, as a part-time traveler, I’m proud of the trips I was able to take in 2015.  There were ups and downs, and lessons to be learned, but I’m very happy with the year I had and am excited for next year as well.  Here are some of the highlights from 2015:

February: I was lucky enough to be able to take my first trip to China early on in the year.  I spent two wonderful weeks exploring Shanghai and cross-training at the Peninsula Hotel there.  Shanghai was full of new experiences and foods, and I loved every minute of it.  Being able to celebrate Chinese New Year in China is an experience I won’t soon forget.

April: My second big trip of the year was my third visit to New York City.  Every time I’m able to go to New York it gets better and better.  I’m so happy to have been able to visit Coney Island, walk along the boardwalk and go on the historic Cyclone roller coaster.  Seeing The Phantom of the Opera was the cherry on top of an amazing trip.
photo (7)

July: July holds a very special place in my heart because it was the month that I took my very first solo road trip to Asheville, North Carolina.  This was an especially big accomplishment for me considering I am not a very comfortable driver.  There were so many things to do, and everyone was so kind and willing to give directions or recommendations.  I loved hiking in Chimney Rock, sampling the brews from the local breweries, and the independence of it all.

August: August was a big Chicago month – Mike and I had an amazing time at Lollapalooza at the beginning of the month and then enjoyed a staycation at The Freehand Chicago.  Lollapalooza was my first ever music festival and I’m happy to say it’s inspired me to want to go to many more.  The Freehand provided a very unique hostel experience and the restaurants there are to die for.  Both experiences were so fun and showed us a new side of our home city.
buckinghamfountain

October: We followed the Foo Fighters south on a little road trip to Memphis, Tennessee.  We had our ups (Sun Studios and Stax Museum, lots of great barbecue, and live music everywhere) and downs (a perpetually deserted downtown and drunkenly falling off a karaoke stage) with this trip, but ultimately we had a wonderful time in Blues City.
Mud Island, Memphis, TN 5
December:
This month brought us to San Francisco, California to celebrate my 26th birthday.  The city was beautiful and the nature surrounding it even more so.  We walked for miles, hiked up mountains, crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and ate some amazing food.

So, what’s next?

As I said before, I work full-time and travel whenever I can, as much as possible.  It actually works pretty well for me.  Because I work in the hospitality industry, the first quarter of the year is always the best time for some vacation time.  So right now I have loooong weekends in both January and February that I don’t have any solid plans for, but I do have some ideas.  We’ll see what happens (suggestions always welcome!)  I have a trip to Toronto, ON set for the beginning of April and a pre-planned but not booked road trip to Gatlinburg, TN sometime in Spring.  Due to a work related situation, I’ll be pretty limited on trips in the summertime, so I imagine there will be a lot of weekenders and day trips during that time.  I’ve got my eye on New Buffalo, Michigan, the New Glarus brewery in Wisconsin, Galena, IL and perhaps a weekend trip to Milwaukee, WI.  The fact that I can’t plan anything big for some months actually has a silver lining though, because I am planning a BIG adventure for September.  I am in the very beginning stages of planning, so I’m not quite ready to hash out the details.  It’ll be good though, I promise.  In the meantime, I’ll keep you posted on the adventures as they come!
Top Five Travel Quotes on rebeccawanderlusting.com

In closing, I want to leave you with some words of wisdom from Mr. George Bailey.  Every year during the holidays, I watch “It’s a Wonderful Life” with my family.  While the whole film is quotable and emotional and all around, well, wonderful, one particular exchange stuck with me this year:

GB (played by the very handsome Jimmy Stewart, don’t judge): “There she blows! You know what the three most exciting sounds in the world are?”

George’s Uncle Billy: “Uh huh, breakfast is served, lunch is served, dinner….”

GB: “No, no, no, no.  Anchor chains, plane motors and train whistles.”

Now, in some ways I am inclined to agree with both of these gentleman, but I think George Bailey really has a point here.  What’s better than the sound of opportunity and adventures to be had?  Isn’t that why we’re all here?  Is there a more exciting sound than the sound of exploration and travelling to new lands far from home?  I don’t think so.  ON that note, here’s wishing everyone an exciting and exploratory 2016 filled with new adventures and bold decisions!

Happy New Year!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

Chinatown, San Francisco, California

City by the Bay – Day 3

On our second day waking up in San Francisco, we still stuck with our Chicago time zone.  We went down to the kitchen in the hostel for the complimentary breakfast, which consisted of assorted bagels, cream cheese, fruit, coffee and tea and juice.  The kitchen and dining room were big and bright and welcoming.  I really enjoyed the hostel, and would definitely stay at a HI Hostel again.  We checked out early to rent a car and drive out to Muir Woods.  Conveniently, there was a bevy of rental car companies right across the street from the hostel.  We had to take the historic Highway 101 across the Golden Gate Bridge and towards Sausalito.
Panoramic Highway
We drove up the twisty turny roads through the mountains to get to Muir.  I was gripping the passenger side handle so tightly, with my other hand half covering my eyes.  Despite the terrifying drive, we made it.  After parking at the visitor center, we paid our $7 a piece entry fee and entered the park.  We didn’t have a set plan in mind, so we started down the boardwalk path admiring the regal trees.
Muir Woods 6
Everyone around us was perfectly silent, as if we were in a church, and I suppose we were, in a way.  The age and size of these magnificent trees is awe-inspiring and the park is so beautifully maintained that it’s easy to see why people would be stunned into silence upon entering the park.  We walked along, crossing over the creek that runs through the trees.   Eventually we walked to a fork in the path, one side was the path that we were on and the other was the Fern Path, which circled up through the mountains and back to the visitor center.
Muir Woods Hike
It boasted a canopy view of the pines, which sounded promising, so we took it.  It turned out to be a 2.5 mile hike total, mostly up hill.  I’m not sure we will ever learn the lesson that Chucks are not good shoes to hike in.  But as we moved up into the tops of the trees, the view trumped our aching feet and all we could do was stare.  It took us two hours to complete the hike, taking breaks here and there for water or to take in the beautiful scenery.


We passed a few other people, but mostly it seemed like we had that particular corner of the forest to ourselves.  Once we reached the end of the path, we stopped in the gift shop/café for a snack.  I’ve said it before, and I’m positive I’ll say it again, but I’m a sucker for a good gift shop.  I never buy anything but I appreciate a gift shop with more than t-shirts and it was fun to browse here.
Muir Woods 5
Once we got our fill, we left the gorgeous park and headed towards Stinson Beach.  The drive there was just as treacherous as before, but just so pretty.  We made a pit stop at the Muir Beach Overlook and it was like stepping onto a movie set.  It was too perfect.  We were in the clouds, on a cliff, with the ocean below us and mountains and beaches all around us.
Muir Beach Overlook
There’s a Jack Kerouac quote that kept going through my head while we were up there – “We were on the roof of America and all we could do was yell, I guess…”  That’s how it felt. It was so completely gorgeous that we had to stand there for quite some time before we could leave.
Muir Beach Overlook 3
We got back on the road and drove along the cliff and the down the motion sickness-inducing curves to Stinson Beach.  There were multiple times we had to pull into the pullouts to let people pass us because we were moving too slowly for the more practiced cliff drivers.  We parked at the beach, and walked out into the sand.  The beach was a long stretch of pastel, with mountains on three sides of it.
Stinson Beach 2


The waves were large and loud and beautiful.  There was a cute looking café at one end of the beach, called The Siren Café that we attempted to visit for lunch.  Unfortunately, it seemed that it was closed for the season.  So we ended up at Parkside Café, which turned out to be pretty cute too.  I had the Clam Chowder and Mike had the Cod Club Sandwich, both of which were delicious.
Parkside Cafe
We got a bit lost on the way home, going the wrong way twice before realizing we had to go back up into the mountains to get back to San Francisco.  Once we got on the right track, I ogled the view as Mike navigated us through the hills.  We crossed the Golden Gate Bridge again and I checked us into our next hotel, Hotel Vertigo, while Mike returned the car.  Hotel Vertigo is a Hitchcock inspired boutique hotel with orange accents and a dizzying spiral staircase.  Our room was a petit queen and had an amazingly huge shower.


We freshened up and headed back out to tie up our exploration loose ends on our last night in SF.  We walked around Union Square a bit before going to dinner at Hops & Hominy, a delightful soul restaurant with a modern twist.  We chose to sit outside, seeing it as a last opportunity to do so before enduring the Chicago winter that was waiting for us back home.  We had cornbread, the cheese plate (always a good choice, in my eyes) and the chicken wings.  The cheese was good and came with delicious accoutrements: glazed walnuts, fig cakes, pears, bread and the best grainy mustard ever made.  We enjoyed the dinner and the drinks and made plans for the evening.
Chinatown
After dinner, we walked through Chinatown to see the lanterns lit up at night.  Our main destination was City Lights Bookstore again to get the books we were eyeing the first time we were there.  I got Allen Ginsberg’s “The Indian Journals” and Mike got “Darkness Spoken” by Ingeborg Bachman.  We crossed the alley and entered Vesuvio Café for a drink.


It was such a fun and unique place to have a drink; the walls were cluttered with posters and art, and we sat upstairs where there were booths and mosaic tables.  It was there that I decided that we needed to do a Beat Generation tour immediately.  We had already hit two influential spots (City Lights and Vesuvio) so we planned it out while we drank, mostly just googling where the Beat writers hung out.  After our drinks, we went to The Beat Generation Museum, which was kitty corner from Vesuvio.
Beat Museum
The store was on point, and interesting to browse through, but we did not cough up the $8 entrance fee to go into the museum because it was very small and you could virtually see the whole thing from the store.  We moved on to Caffe Trieste, in the North Beach neighborhood, which was just a short walk away.  Allen Ginsberg was rumored to sit in this café and write.  I got a hot chocolate there and tried to soak up all the good creative vibes.
Caffe Trieste
The neighborhood it was in was chock full of unique shops and hip bars, with strings of lights twinkling, crisscrossing over the street.  All of shops were already closed for the evening, which did not stop us from walking along and window-shopping.  I’m really bummed we discovered this area until late our last night.  But, at least we know it’s there for next time.  We turned back to walked towards Chinatown, and were hit with the best pizza smell my nose has ever smelled: Golden Boy Pizza.
Golden Boy Pizza
We were not hungry, but we had to try it.  So we got one of their beautiful, rectangular slices with everything on it to share.  It was so delicious, well-seasoned and had the perfect amount of crisp.  We walked through the eerily quiet city, eating our Pizza and self-navigating back to Union Square.  We stopped for one last drink at The White Horse Bar.  It was in the Hotel Beresford, right near the Academy of Arts University, so it was mostly populated with college students.  But there was shuffleboard and the drinks were cheap so we were content.  We stopped one last time before getting to the hotel to get a bottle of wine to celebrate another successful trip.  In the morning, we packed up and went to Lori’s Diner for breakfast.  The atmosphere was classic 50’s diner, with a Cadillac in the center and pictures of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis on the walls.
Lori's Diner
The food was just OK, nothing super special.  When we were finishing up, a deafening fire alarm went off and continued to go off for ten minutes or so.  Apparently it was a drill, but it still left a literal and figurative bad taste in our mouths.  We took the BART back to the airport and got through security surprisingly fast.  When we got to our gate, I opened “On The Road” and continued reading with a new understanding and appreciation of Mr. Kerouac’s draw to San Francisco.
GoldenGateBridge.JPG

Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, California

City by the Bay – Day 2

We woke up pretty early on our first full day there and decided to use it to our advantage. We walked to Dottie’s True Blue Café for breakfast, which came highly recommended and with warnings of a long wait for a table. However, since we were such early-risers, we only waited twenty minutes before we Dottie's True Blue Cafewere seated in the cozy dining room.  The coffee was great and the food was pretty good.  I’m not a very good judge of breakfast places since I don’t eat eggs and typically stick to pancakes, so I usually rely on Mike’s opinion.  He was in omelet heaven.  He ordered the lamb sausage and goat cheese omelet with dill potatoes and cornbread toast.  The cornbread was served with a jalapeno jelly and was such a treat.  I had the pancakes and bacon which were uncomplicated and simply delicious.  The servers were very friendly and the whole experience was worth walking through an unsavory part of town to get to it.  When we left the restaurant, the line was wrapped around the block… so fair warning: if you plan on visiting Dottie’s – go early.  We cabbed over to The Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina District in order to walk over to the ocean, not realizing that it was a destination in itself.  We were awestruck by it.
Palace of Fine Arts
The tall, golden structures loomed over us and we walked with our chins tilted up to take it all in.  I’m so glad we stumbled upon it because it was a mistake not to have it on our to-do list in the first place.  Once we had our fill, we walked to the yacht club across the street to get our first view of the Golden Gate Bridge.  I was literally jumping for joy when we finally saw it, and the ocean.  It was just so beautiful.  Mike was equally as excited – it was his first time seeing the Pacific Ocean.
Golden Gate Bridge
We took the requisite photos of the bridge and then moved down the small peninsula to the Wave Organ.  It was misting and cold due to our early morning trek, and I wish I could say it was worth it but once we got there, the organ was absolutely silent.  It was a very pretty view from there and we could have just caught it in the wrong conditions, but I was just a tad disappointed.  We turned around and made our way towards the bridge.  The walk was so relaxing; we strolled along the beach, mountains on one side of us and the ocean on the other.
California Coast 2
A ways down the path, we stopped at the Warming Hut (a small cafe and gift shop) to get some water and then cut up into the hills to the entrance of the bridge, a walk which provided beautiful panoramic views of the bay.  We approached the bridge, and our path became much more crowded.  Buses of tourists joined us as we got up onto the bridge.  We walked across, tripping over each other as we stared at the ocean and took pictures.  The Golden Gate Bridge is about a mile and half long, so we saved crossing it for when we’d have a car the next day and turned back at the halfway point.  The views from the middle of the bridge were so beautiful, photos don’t really do it justice, but I tried.
Panoramic Bridge View
Once back on solid ground, we decided to walk along the coast a bit and move on to Golden Gate Park, a good hour’s walk.  I cannot fully explain the complete contentedness I felt as we walked along the coast.  Every turn in the path showed a new view of the ocean or the bridge or the beach and I loved every minute of it.  It was still a little foggy and misty, which made it even better.  There was even a lookout point where we could see fins moving through the water.  I would like to say they were sharks, because that’s my favorite possibility, but we’ll never know for sure.  We walked downhill and through the trees to Baker Beach and listened to the waves in the mist, which soon turned to rain as we stood there.  The beach is vast and beautiful with a fantastic view of the mountains and bridge across the way.
California Coast
Our GPS designated path took us through the Presidio neighborhood next, which was pretty ritzy.  We walked through it with our jackets soaked through and our sneakers full of sand, admiring the huge houses behind iron gates.  We trudged to Golden Gate Park and Street Tacocalled it quits after all we could find was a disc golf course.  I know there is so much to see in the park, but we just couldn’t enjoy it in our current state.  We got an Uber, which took us through the park towards Haight Ashbury.  We had lunch at Street Taco on Haight Street and scarfed down some good carne asada tacos and chips and guacamole – that long walk really worked up our appetites.  Wandering around Haight Ashbury, popping into stores and people watching proved to be an interesting experience.  It’s a pretty eccentric crowd over there.  The shops featured a lot of vintage and artsy items.  Our favorite shops were: Amoeba Records (an incredible superstore of music and movies), Wasteland Vintage and Loved to Death (macabre art at its finest).  We wandered up and down the street a few times, trying to hit every store before we finally went back to the hostel to rest a bit before dinner.


The F “Train” (which was more like an electric bus) took us towards Fisherman’s Wharf.  The train was a good way to see the piers from a distance, as it goes all along the Embarcadero.  We got off at Pier 23 and hoofed it up a good amount of stairs to Coit Tower.  It was a steep hike to the top, and the path took us through some backyards, but it was so worth it.  The view from the top at night was sparkling and beautiful.  The Bay Bridge lit up the right side of the sky with the lights of the city just beyond it, the rest was a perfect darkness.
Coit Tower
We took it all in and then moved on to walk to dinner, realizing then that we went up the back way instead of using the main entrance.  Regardless, we went back down the way we came, back towards Fisherman’s Wharf.  We walked along the piers which were not very crowded for a Sunday Evening, and on to the famed Pier 39.  It was full of lights and shops and restaurants and people. This seemed to be the happening spot. We moved past the expensive souvenir stores and chain restaurants to the end, where the seals were.  It was pretty eerie to see them move around in the dark, and hearing the disembodied barking every few seconds.
Pier 39
We went to The Franciscan Crab restaurant for dinner, which was a little bit further down, on Pier 41.  The restaurant was not very crowded, but seemed like a classic west coast seafood joint.  We ordered the iron skillet roasted shrimp and crab legs with potatoes and corn on the side.  I loved the crab legs, because, well, I always love crab legs, but the shrimp were not for me.  The cocktails were very good – I had the Ariel’s Allure Martini, but  The service left a little to be desired, so overall the experience was just OK.  There were obviously plenty of other seafood restaurants to choose from, so next time, I’d probably go somewhere else.  We walked back to the F train and took it to the financial district to walk the rest of the way. We stopped at Bartlett Hall, which was just around the corner from the hostel, for a nightcap.  The bar had a lot of character and played great music.  The cocktails (particularly the Al Capone) and the gentleman slinging them were delightful.  It was the perfect place to end our first full day in San Francisco.
Union Square Heart

To Be Continued…

City by the Bay – Day 1

We landed at SFO at 10:10am PST on a Saturday.  After picking up our luggage, we headed up to the Airtram and then to the BART station to go downtown.  $8.65 and thirty minutes later, we arrived at the Powell St. Station in Union Square.  Our first view of downtown was of the beautiful buildings on Powell Street and the trolley.  However, before we could enjoy any of it, we needed to eat something.  We went into the first place we saw that wasn’t a fast food joint, which was Tad’s Steakhouse on Powell Street.  It was a decent enough place, we ordered at the counter and sat down to eat some pretty good burgers before moving on. We walked to The HI San Francisco Downtown, which was very close to the train station, to check in.  The helpful women at the front desk allowed us to check in early, and explained the amenities of the hostel, which include: daily activities and city tours and complimentary breakfast.


We went up to our private room (with en suite bath) to freshen up.  The room was pretty large and cutely decorated.  We settled in and changed clothes before heading out to explore the city.  My sister had recommended that we go to City Lights Bookstore, so we walked over to check it out.  We walked through Union Square, which was festively decorated with a Christmas Tree and skating rink.  We had to walk through a tunnel to get to Chinatown, which made me think of the tunnel scene from “The Stand” and I rushed us through it.  We fought our way through the crowds and found City Lights on Jack Kerouac Alley, right where it should be.  It featured three glorious floors of books, and a good selection of Beat Generation works.  Naturally, we browsed for a while, taking our time on each floor.  Outside, Kerouac Alley was very colorful, with murals on the walls and quotes etched in gold on the cobblestones.  Of course there was one from the man himself – “The air was soft, the stars so fine, the promise of every cobbled alley so great…”.


We walked back through Chinatown and took in the sights and smells.  Women haggling over cabbage, shopkeepers trying to lure us into their stores, fireworks going off in the street, it was a pretty authentic scene. That night we met my cousin, Katie and her fiancé, James for dinner in the Mission District.  Mike and I got over there early so we could check out the neighborhood.  We picked up a coffee from Muddy Waters Needles and PensCoffee House and popped into some of the stores in the area.  There were a lot of really cute and unique stores along Valencia Street.  Our favorites were Needles and Pens, Wallflower Vintage and Wonderland Gallery.  The stores were interspersed with a diverse set of restaurants and cafes. My first choice for dinner was Lolo’s, a tapas restaurant, but there was an hour and a half wait, so we decided to moved on.  We stopped at La Taza (a cute cafe with lighter fare) for a beer and to get our dinner plans straight.  Katie wanted to take us somewhere memorable, and once that was settled, she certainly delivered.  We walked to The Crafty Fox, and I am so happy that’s where we ended up.  It is a brilliant gastropub located on Mission Street, and has a bar up front and long shared tables in the back.  We staked out an area at the end of one, and went up to the bar to order.  They had an excellent selection of craft beer and the food was amazing.  Mike and I split the salmon skewers and the wild boar sausage, both of which we loved, and I had the New Kids on the Hops (Altamont Beer Works) beer, which complimented our food choices wonderfully.  Plus, the company and conversation made the evening even better, of course.  Katie and James proved once again to be fantastic hosts (they were also nice enough to open up their home to me in Korea).


We all took the subway to our respective homes, us going back to Union Square and Katie and James going farther down the line, to Berkeley.  Once we were off the train, Mike and I decided to stop for one more drink at a bar his coworker recommended: Golden Gate Tap Room.  We got our hands stamped at the door and walked up a flight of stairs to the bar.  It was more or less a beercade, except unlike some of the ones in Chicago, you had to pay for the games.  We each had a beer and played a couple games of Mrs. Pacman before feeling too old for the young crowd and retiring for the night.  Back at the hostel, we fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillows.

To Be Continued…