Solo Trip Snapshots, Copenhagen, RebeccaWanderlusting

Christiania + Tivoli Gardens

On November 6, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel1 Comment

Christiania and Tivoli Gardens are two of the better known attractions in Copenhagen, but could not be more different. I visited them both on my first day in Copenhagen, and they both left significant impressions on me. I walked to Christiania from Paper Island, which took about twenty-five minutes. For a moment, I thought maybe I’d missed it. It’s kind of a hard place to find, but then you notice the painted buildings and the small market stalls and the other tourists wandering around, looking perplexed.

Christiania is an autonomous neighborhood, meaning it’s technically its own micronation, and was created in 1971. It became famous for its inhabitants interesting way of life and for its green light district, which is actually no longer openly advertised. It’s a strange place, because it seems like the people of Christiania aren’t super happy about tourists tromping through their town, but also want to sell them Christiania t-shirts and homemade goods. A lot of the area outside of the main square consists of brightly colored homes along cobblestone streets.

This area is one of Copenhagen’s most popular tourist attractions, in fact, it is even included on the Hop On, Hop Off tours of the city. However, there is no photography allowed inside the neighborhood. This, along with no running and have fun (smiley face, pot leaf) are the neighborhoods displayed rules. It’s a beautiful place to visit, with amazing murals on the walls and a town square with shops and restaurants and a gorgeous little lake. I’m glad I went but I also felt a bit guilty about bursting into this peaceful community (and sneaking some pictures).

Tivoli gardens, on the other hand, is also very colorful but in a much more manufactured way. Photos are encouraged and everything there is there for tourism. The park was a short walk away from my hostel, Annex Copenhagen. The entry fee was included in my Copenhagen Card, but the entry fee didn’t cover any of the rides, so I paid an additional $33 to get an unlimited pass. Like I would go to one of the world’s oldest theme parks and NOT go on any of the rides, psh.

As I entered the park, I walked by a stage where a ballet was being performed, and the main stage, where an apparently famous Danish band, Dizzy Mizz Lizzy, was to play that evening. I headed straight to the rides, and hopped on one small roller coaster, aptly named The Roller Coaster, that took me through dark caves and bumped along over fake mountains.

I hate to say it, but during my time at Tivoli Gardens, I did feel a bit like a loner, especially having to get on the rides with families of three or with the third wheels of dates. I still had fun though. Especially on the swings, which are always my favorite. Once we reached the top, the city was bathed in a red glow from the setting sun and the view was completely stunning. I think that was the very instant I fell in love with this city.

The largest roller coaster in the park was called The Demon, which I got in line for after dark. It was a thrilling, twisty-turny ride that I absolutely loved. I would have gone again but by that time, the lines were getting a bit long. I got a hot dog and beer from one of the many snack stands and sat down to soak in the beautiful, historic park in all of its twinkly-light glory.

I went on a few more little rides, including an incredibly creepy Hans Christian Anderson themed ride featuring grinning animatronics. I was planning on staying to listen to the band, but once they started playing the park filled to capacity and there was nowhere to even stand to see them.

After I left Tivoli Gardens, I wandered back to the hotel to have a nightcap and do some writing in the bar. The hostel I was staying in, Annex Copenhagen, was unique in that it was attached the Absalon Hotel, and to get in and out you used the hotel entrance. The hostel occupied the same floors as the hotel, but you could tell where the nice hotel rooms ended and the hostel rooms began because the carpet went from calm pastels to garish, brightly colored carpets and signs for communal bathrooms decorating the walls.

That’s not to say the hostel wasn’t nice, it definitely was. The bathrooms were clean and private and my room was cozy and overlooked the hotel’s courtyard. I went to bed that night feeling content and happy with my first full day in Copenhagen and ready to begin exploring again the next morning.

Have you been to Tivoli Gardens? Which was your favorite ride?

Canal Tour & Copenhagen Street Food

On October 30, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Denmark, International Travel6 Comments

After a frustratingly long day of travel to get to Copenhagen the day before, I was very happy to start fresh on my first full day in this beautiful city. Walking the streets of Copenhagen was a completely wonderful and totally humbling experience. The history of the city is palpable. The architecture is stunning. I don’t even know how to describe it fully; it was all just classically European.

My first stop was a café called Streckers for breakfast, where I enjoyed a teeny, tiny croissant and an iced coffee. They had Bill Withers on the stereo and the Broncos v. Panthers game on the TV. It was a nice place, but the only thing really remarkable about it was how small the croissants are (see for yourself below).

From there, I kept wandering with the intention of eventually finding Nyhavn to take a canal tour. There was no shortage of storefronts and cafes, and I thoroughly enjoyed hopping into the cute boutiques to browse.

Nyhavn is perhaps one of the most photographed neighborhood in Copenhagen, with its brightly colored rows of buildings on either side of the boat-lined canal. It is so very charming that I can see how it’s so popular. The canal tour was included with the Copenhagen Card, which I picked up earlier that morning from the city visitor center.

The boat was about 2/3’s full with tourists all listening intently to our tour guide, Astrid, who switched between English, French and Danish with ease. The canal tour wove through the city, under bridges that were so low we had to duck our heads to avoid losing them.

It was a great way to see a lot of the city for the first time, but gave me no real bearings of how to get to the attractions we passed on land. I loved being on the water though. We passed through residential areas where our tour guide was not allowed to speak, so we sat in companionable silence and admired the scenery until we had moved on.

Astrid gave us some insights into what the Danes think of some of their most famous attractions; for example, they liken their Opera House to a toaster and believe that the Little Mermaid statue is the most disappointing tourist attraction. She was very knowledgeable and presented all the facts with just enough sarcasm to keep us on our toes.

The canal tour was a great way to form my must-see list for the rest of my stay in Copenhagen. After the tour, I walked over the inner harbor bridge to the island that houses Copenhagen Street Food. The indoor food market is housed in an old newspaper warehouse (hence the name Paper Island), and offers a wide variety of international meals.

My best advice for visiting this culinary wonderland is get a drink first, because you will definitely be taking a few laps around the food stalls to figure out what you want to eat. Everything looks amazing and the prices aren’t too bad. I did four laps before deciding on a Brazilian grill called Brasa, where I ordered the pork plate with chimichurri sauce, pineapple and pepper slaw, salad and potatoes.

I sat at one of the tables in the center of the stalls; there was plenty of seating despite the crowds of people eating there. They also had outdoor seating by the water, but it was a bit chilly for me.

The food was delicious, and so was the Danish Pilsner I had on the side. The energy in the market was cheerful, and the open layout of the building made it great for people watching. Right next door to this wonderful food labyrinth is Copenhagen Contemporary, an art museum featuring print and performance art. The entry fee is not included in the Copenhagen Card, but it’s only $7.50 so I paid up and went in.

The first exhibit I wandered into was one by Icelandic Artist Ragnar Kjartansson that featured the band The National playing their song “Sorrow” for six hours straight on the roof of the MoMA. At first, I thought it would be a bit of a boring video because of its repetition, but it really drew me in. Each time the song started over you could see the struggle the band was going through to keep playing it. Sometimes they would perk up and power through and sometimes they would almost be crying from exhaustion. I’ll admit it… I downloaded the song right after.

The museum also featured a few installations by Bruce Nauman, which were very thought-provoking and a little in-your-face, and an exhibit by Yoko Ono. The museum was a fun experience and I’m glad I popped in. If you are planning on eating at Copenhagen Street Food, the Copenhagen Contemporary is definitely worth a visit!

Stay tuned for more Copenhagen adventures!

Have you ever been to Copenhagen? What do you think is the best way to see the city, by land or canal?

A Weekend in Milwaukee, WI

On October 24, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn US Travel, Wisconsin2 Comments

Our first stop in Milwaukee, WI was the Art Museum, housed in the iconic, postmodern building right on Lake Michigan. The fee to get into the museum is a little steep, at $17/person, but it’s also pretty worth it. The entryway is beautiful, with a view of the lake through a convex wall of windows.

The best part for me was the collection of contemporary art and the special exhibit of Rembrandts on the top floor. The museum was having a used book sale while we were there as well, which was fun to browse. As we walked back along the lake to our car, the sun finally started to peak out, highlighting the beautiful and well-maintained parks.

From there we drove to Lakefront Brewery to meet up with our friends Colton and Sarah, who were en route to Green Bay for the Packers Game. The brewery tours were sold out for the day (learn from our mistake – buy tickets ahead of time!), but we were happy just to partake in the beer and food at the brewery.

Between the four of us, we ordered pretzel bites, cheese curds, fish tacos, smothered fries, pulled pork flatbread and fresh, delicious, Wisconsin-brewed beers. The food was excellent and everything you could want in Wisconsin food: fried, cheesy, comforting and indulgent. The dining room was open with long tables filled with guests. Brewery tours ran through every half hour, with the guide riling up the crowd loudly. I was a little bummed not to be participating, but we taste tested quite a few beers on our own.

Our next stop was the Riverview Antique Market, a ten minute drive away. The store was huge and full of a curated collection of antiques, split into stalls by vendor. My favorite feature were the large Barnum & Bailey circus posters hanging from the walls throughout the warehouse. The four of us had a blast walking through the store, picking out memorabilia and antique home goods.

The staff was friendly and willing to point us in the direction of more antique stores in the area if we felt so inclined to keep shopping. After we left the store, it was time to go our separate ways; Sarah and Colton heading to Green Bay and Mike and I going to check into our hotel. The Hilton City Center was a little outdated but still glamorous, with ornate chandeliers and gold accents.

Our room was small, but comfortable, with a view of the lake and the soft, white bedding that I love so much. When we were looking for somewhere to go for dinner, we did some research and stumbled upon a list of “Essential Milwaukee Restaurants”. One of said restaurants was one I had read about before, famed for their great Friday fish fry. And although it was Saturday, we decided to try it anyways; their German menu fit in nicely with the Oktoberfest celebrations around the city. Kegel’s Inn was a ten minute cab ride away, across the highway.

Milwaukee is interesting because the highway bisects the city, which makes it not all that walkable. This means that we spent a pretty penny on uber rides that evening. The restaurant was in a residential neighborhood and when we walked in, the locals sitting at the bar gave us the stink eye. That to me, seemed like a good sign, but I could tell by the look on Mike’s face that he wasn’t so sure. The host sat us at a table in the corner, where we ascertained that we were the youngest patrons in the place by about 20 years. We ordered “traditional” German food, which came with soup and salad and bread with herbed butter.

Definite supper club vibes here. The soup and salad were good, but the entrees… were not delicious. They were unappetizing looking and didn’t taste any better. We did our best to push the food around the plate and make it look like we ate some of it to appease our very sweet waitress. We got the check and hustled out, keeping our heads down. Perhaps next time, we’ll stick to the fish fry. We went to the Rave next for the main event, the Thrice concert. The show was fantastic and the venue is very pretty, but it’s not run very well.

After ordering $9 Bud Lights, we decided this would not be a show we would drink during. Luckily, Thrice is amazing live, and that made up for the expensive drinks. As soon as the band started playing their encore, we high-tailed it out of there to catch yet another cab to the Cactus Club, a bar that I knew both Mike and I would love. It was a long cab ride there and the place was mobbed with people, so by the time we got into the bar, Mike was not a happy camper.

But! Once we were seated at the bar with a couple of New Glarus beers, there was punk music playing and Star Wars on the TVs. I could see that Mike was trying hard not to smile. This was so his type of place. They had live music playing in the back room (with a cover charge), but we were perfectly happy sitting at the bar. The beer was cheap and the bartenders were friendly and attentive; it’s easy to say that this was our favorite stop of the evening. We made our way back to the hotel (another uber) happy and a little drunk.

The next morning, we checked out early and headed to Café Benelux for breakfast. The area the restaurant was located in, the Historic 3^rd Ward neighborhood, is super cute and fun to explore. We sat on the amazing rooftop terrace where you can enjoy your brunch in the sunshine and with a view. Mike got the Hodge Podge scramble and I got the waffle with berries along with our coffee.

Both entrees were delicious, but Mike’s was the best and of course I snuck a couple of bites. We walked across the street to the Public Market next, which was very similar to the one in Grand Rapids, MI. There was a mixture of shops and food vendors, selling everything from fine cheeses to handmade jewelry to local brews (both coffee and beer).

We particularly liked the t-shirts and magnets at Brew City, where we bought a Milwookie Chewbacca t-shirt for my niece. The market deserved more attention, but we were determined to keep moving.

We went to Downtown Books, where it was entirely possible to get lost amongst the stacks. The vast variety of genres would make any bibliophile very happy. I ended up getting a Hunter S. Thompson book before we went on our way.

Our last real stop of our Milwaukee trip was the County Clare, a family-style restaurant with an Irish theme and a bar on one side. Mike and I sat at the bar and both ordered one of their famed Bloody Mary’s, his spicy and mine not. The drinks came with a beef stick, string cheese, a pickle, a potato and a small glass of Harp beer to chase it all down. I had never had a Bloody Mary before and wasn’t sure how much I’d like it.

It turns out I don’t have to wonder anymore, I definitely don’t like them. They’re just not my cup of tea, I guess. But the bartender serving us was so sweet that I drank the whole thing, gulping beer or water after each sip. We caught some of the Packer’s game before rolling out, thanking the kind bartender profusely as we went. We grabbed coffee at the hip Collectivo before starting the drive back to Chicago.

The café was warm and welcoming, with tables filled with people working on their computers contentedly. The coffee was just what we needed to propel us home. Thank you for a fun weekend Milwaukee!

Have you ever been to Milwaukee, WI? What did you like most about the city?

Reykjavik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

Last Day in Reykjavik, Iceland

On October 19, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel3 Comments

My last day in Reykjavik, Iceland was bittersweet. I was so sad to leave the country that I had fallen head over heels for, but was also very excited to move on to my next stop, Copenhagen. I planned the day’s activities around a last minute Reykjanes Peninsula Tour, which ran from 1pm to 4pm. The one thing that I really wanted to do before I left the country was go to The Laundromat Café for breakfast.

I had read great reviews about this quirky restaurant and wanted to try it for myself. I started the day early and walked over to the café from Hotel Holt. Every time I had passed this restaurant it was full of people, luckily I was able to catch it at a slower time. I sat down at a table by the windows and ordered coffee right off the bat. The menu here is simple, and it was easy to choose the blueberry and banana pancakes.

This meal was my absolute favorite in Iceland. The pancakes were topped with fresh blueberries, caramelized bananas, maple syrup and had Greek yogurt and blueberry compote on the side. It was heavenly. And the restaurant is so cute! They have a rainbow of books lining the outside of the coffee bar and framed photos of laundromats on the walls.

After breakfast, I walked over to the National Museum of Iceland, which was about a ten minute walk from the restaurant. There was a $13 fee to enter the museum, which features two floors of exhibits on Iceland’s history from its discovery through modern times. I found the museum to be very interesting, especially the exhibits featuring information and artifacts of the Vikings and the feminist movement in Iceland.

I took an hour and a half to go through the museum in its entirety, but I could have spent more time going back through to take a longer look at my favorite exhibits. However, I had to run back to my hotel to catch my tour bus to The Reykjanes Peninsula (read all about that here).

After the tour was over, our bus driver drove us wherever we wanted to be dropped off, so I got out at the Old Harbor to attempt to eat an early dinner at the Sea Baron. Every time I had attempted to eat at this seaside restaurant in the past few days it had been packed. Thankfully, since I was ahead of the game, it was easy to snag a seat at one of the community style tables.

The famous lobster soup was served up with a personal basket of fresh baked bread with butter. The soup hit the spot; it was so delicious. There were chunks of fresh lobster and the broth was perfectly seasoned. After being out in the cold all day, the soup was a perfect treat. After dinner, I stopped back at Hotel Holt to change out of my hiking clothes, then headed out to catch the rest of happy hour. I walked over to the Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur Street, where they boasted a two-for-one special.

Because I arrived towards the end of happy hour, at 6:30pm, I had to have both my drinks at once to take an advantage of the good deal. So I found an empty table and sat down to enjoy my two glasses of Sauvignon Blanc and Blues Brothers, which was being projected on the wall. This bar was so fun, with its themed decor in line with the 90’s cult classic, and even had a White Russian menu.

After happy hour, I was planning on wandering around a bit and maybe finding another bar to have a drink, however, I fortunately ran right into a Haunted Reykjavik walking tour. The tour was cash only – 2500isk, which I didn’t have. But! Lucky for me, he was accepting other currencies as well, and I had a 20 pound note in my wallet that I’ve had in there for years, since a guest at work tipped me with it.

The tour started at an Elf Rock, which is where elves live, of course. Elves are serious business in Iceland, which is fascinating to me. The tour circled through downtown Reykjavik, along old churches and the parliament building. Our tour guide, Oli, had us all engaged and laughing the whole way.

The way he told each story was great; he had all the facts but still made jokes the whole time. The last stop of the tour was the Reykjavik Cemetery. The lights hadn’t kicked on yet, and it was very dark and pretty scary. Oli guided us through using the flashlight on his phone and explained the different historic graves and Icelandic traditions. As we moved through the cemetery, we passed a gentleman lounging against a statue next to his scooter. We kept moving, and stopped for Oli’s next talking point.

Soon into this next story, the aforementioned gentleman started yelling from the direction that we came. I think it’s safe to say that everyone in the group jumped when it started, and we all tried to laugh it off. We moved on to the last grave, Jon Sigurdsson’s, where Oli was telling us all about this significant Icelander’s life. This was when the fight broke out. Mr. Scooter was grappling with another guy, and they both were yelling in a mash up of English and Icelandic. Very calmly, Oli suggested we move the tour somewhere else. The group quickly moved back to the downtown area, everyone whispering about the two amateur wrestlers in the cemetery. Oli finished up the tour with the same charisma he started with and just as he said his closing line, we spotted the scooter guy and his friend cruising by together, on the same scooter, both looking battered and unhappy.

It was actually a great end to the tour, plus it was hilarious. I finished up the night getting some ice cream at a charming little creperie on the way back to the hotel. It was a perfect ending to the wonderful whirlwind of adventures of Iceland.

Have you visited Reykjavik, Iceland? Which museums did you visit? Did you take a walking tour of the city?

Reykjanes Peninsula Tour

On October 12, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International TravelLeave a comment

The Reykjanes Peninsula may be known as the home of the Blue Lagoon, but the rest of this amazing landscape should not be missed! Because it is also the home of Keflavik Airport, so it’s typically the first glimpse of Iceland that most people get. The Peninsula is a geothermally active, otherworldly landscape full of wonders. I’m so glad that I got an in-depth look.

I booked this tour on a whim after enjoying the South Coast tour so much. It was relatively inexpensive and only took the afternoon, so it was a perfect choice for my last day in Iceland. A Grayline Bus picked me up from Hotel Holt and shuttled me and the other passengers to the main bus terminal (right near the AirBnB I stayed at!). From there, I took another bus to the Blue Lagoon to catch yet another bus, which would take us on the actual tour.

I didn’t feel the pull to actually visit the Blue Lagoon, but I’m really happy that I got to see it at least because it is BEAUTIFUL. I checked in with the tour guide, DeeDee, to make sure I had time, and then ran off to take some photos of the bright blue water. There’s a path that winds around the Blue Lagoon Spa where other people were also wandering around in awe like me. It was such a gorgeous site to behold.

I was smiling so hard that my cheeks hurt by the time I boarded the bus to get on with the tour. I really enjoyed this tour guide because she was quirky and talkative (her first line of the tour was “BUCKLE UP EVERYBODY, THERE’S A WOMAN DRIVING!”), and made sure to stop anywhere and everywhere that we might want to take pictures. So, naturally, our first stop was a scenic overlook of the lava fields that cover a lot of the area.

We did a quick driving tour of the fishing village of Grindavik, which DeeDee narrated, spouting out interesting facts as we went. Like, did you know that fishing was the #1 industry in Iceland until last year, when tourism took its place? The drive along the peninsula was stunning. We had volcanoes to our left and the Atlantic Ocean to our right. Our next stop(s) were in the geothermal area, starting with the Green Lake and moving on to Krysuvik, a bubbling, sulfuric area.

The green lake was beautiful and its smooth surface resembled blue and green agate; it was amazing. We hopped back in the bus after taking our pictures and drove across the street to the active geothermal area. We walked through it on a boardwalk that zigzagged over the steaming ground.

The colors were gorgeous, from shades of orange and red to deep purple. The sulfur smell made us all try to breathe exclusively through our mouths, but it was a beautiful place to explore. From there, we drove down the road a ways to Kleifarvatn Lake, one of the largest lakes in Iceland. It was freezing and windy over by the water, so we ran to take our pictures of the moody, choppy lake set amongst the green-topped hills.

Recently (in 2000), an earthquake caused the lake to drain a bit and the water level went down a significant amount. This, plus murder of course, became the plot of a famous crime novel written by one of Iceland’s most well-known authors. We also stopped up the mountainside so we could take in the view of the lake from above, which was a thoughtful addition to the tour.

Our last stop of the tour was a whole area of the peninsula devoted to drying fish heads to be shipped out to whoever buys dried fish heads. It was quite the sight to see; all those fish heads dangling from wooden posts.

Deedee drove us back to Reykjavik and dropped us off wherever we wanted to go. And where I wanted to go was the Sea Baron in the Old Harbor, but more on that later…

Have you visited the Reykjanes Peninsula in Iceland? What was your favorite spot there?

Black Sand Beach, Vik, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

South Coast Tour Part Two

On October 9, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel1 Comment

The first half of the South Coast Tour was jaw-droppingly beautiful; full of lush, green land, gorgeous waterfalls and world-renown hiking trails. The second half was a completely different landscape, much like how the landscape of Iceland as a whole changes from mile to mile. Our first stop after the waterfalls was the quaint south coast fishing town of Vik, Iceland for a lunch break.

On our way there we passed miles of farmland and mountains, all of which was spotted with fluffy, little sheep. The tour van took the hills and curves at about 50mph, which was thrilling to say the least. We came over a hill to view Vik for the first time in all its cute, small town charm. Siggy, our tour guide, brought us to a roadside café for lunch. It was an order-at-the-counter kind of establishment, so our group made quite a long line. There were a lot of great looking local options, most of which came in the form of a stew. By the time I got up to the counter, I ordered a cheeseburger out of pure indecisiveness. It was pretty good! From the diner we could see the backside of the Black Sand Beach, with its telltale stone pillars lining up into the ocean.

We finished up our meals and were ushered back to the bus. We drove on to the front entrance to the beach and were set loose to explore. I love being anywhere near the sea, so this was my favorite stop of the day. The waves were quite large, and crashed onto the black stones on the beach, slipping through the cracks between them and sending tourists scurrying away from them to avoid getting soaked.

In addition to the stunning view of the ocean, the surrounding hillside and rock formations were strange and beautiful. Opposite the water was a hillside comprised of what looked like stone jenga pieces stacked up behind each other. Just to the right of this sculpted hill are the two stone pillars sticking up from the ocean.

If I were on my own schedule, I could have sat on the rocks watching the waves roll in all day. However, I was on tour time, so we moved on after spending 30-40 minutes admiring the Black Sand Beach.

Our next and final stop of the tour was the Solheimajokull Glacier, which was a little ways away. Siggy got out with us and walked us the half mile towards the glacier, giving us the facts as we went. Along the way, I got to talking to two retired teachers who travel together frequently, one was American and the other was Canadian. As it turns out, they were going to Copenhagen next too, so we made tentative plans to meet up there.

The tour stopped a bit away from the actual glacier and Siggy explained that the year before, the glacier had come up to the point where we stood. It’s been receding rapidly, and even when we moved up to stand next to it we could see the water running out from underneath.

The glacier didn’t look how I thought it might look; it was black on top with white and icy blue beneath. We walked up the glacier a couple steps, but only a couple because none of us had the spiked shoes needed to glacier hike. On the glacier, there were cracks that went through to the bottom, where I could see the water running underneath.

It was a lot colder by the glacier, so by the time we had to go back to the bus, most people were more than ready. The bus ride back to towards Reykjavik was pretty quiet as I think everyone was reflecting on all the beauty we got to see. The tour bus dropped us each off at our hotels, where we each thanked Siggy as we got off.

When I arrived back in my hotel room, I quickly changed and headed back out to get some dinner. I wanted to go to the Sea Baron, but the line was out the door, so I set about finding something else that was in my budget but wasn’t fast food. This is kind of a struggle in Reykjavik, because a lot of the restaurants are pretty pricey. After thirty minutes of wandering, I landed at Fish & More for their specialty, which was a sort of fish casserole served with broccoli, sweet potatoes, rice and rye bread with a Viking beer on the side.

It was either really delicious or I was really hungry. The restaurant had a really fun vibe, with stacks of National Geographic magazines on the side tables, comfy benches along one wall and bags of water (like the ones you’d bring a goldfish home in from the state fair) hanging from the ceiling. Their playlist was also really good, with bands like the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and Death Cab for Cutie. It was a great place to end a day full of adventuring.

Stay tuned for more adventures in Iceland!

Have you ever been on a tour through Iceland? Which one and what did you think?

South Coast Waterfalls

On October 5, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel2 Comments

The morning of my South Coast Tour, I waited outside Hotel Holt for the Extreme Iceland bus to scoop me up. I had a rocky start to the day after I spilled a cup of coffee all down myself and on my notebook while I was trying to enjoy the complimentary continental breakfast. This unfortunate event sent me running back to my room to change while apologizing to everyone I passed for making a mess. I tried to salvage the outfit, but it was no good so I changed and hurried back downstairs to jump on the bus, still smelling a bit like coffee.

We had a relatively small group of seventeen people plus our guide, Icelandic Harrison Ford (aka Siggy), and everyone was chatting excitedly as we left Reykjavik. The landscapes we passed were otherworldly; scruffy green hills, golden fields for miles, mountains and ridges. We passed Icelandic horses (shorter and prettier than American horses) and tons of fluffy sheep (fun fact: there are three sheep to every one human in Iceland).

The bus stopped briefly for a bathroom/coffee break before moving to our first South Coast stop of the day: Seljalandsfoss. This gorgeous waterfall stopped me in my tracks. This is exactly what I came to Iceland to see and it hit me right in the gut. The waterfall cascades from a cliff into a small pool, with an inlet carved out behind it so it’s possible to hike all the way around the fall. Sets of stairs were situated on both sides that were perfect for photo ops. The view from behind the waterfalls was breathtaking. Jagged rocks led down to the pool where the falls landed, where it was possible to wade in a bit.

It was also very wet, and everyone came out on the other side a little damper than before. We were given thirty minutes to explore this waterfall and the area around it, which included a couple other small waterfalls and green grass as far as the eye could see. I bonded with a mother/daughter team from London during the first stop. They were from right by where I lived when I studied abroad in London, which gave us plenty to talk about. Making friends on the tour was really easy because we were all on the same small bus for the whole day, which was very nice. Of course there were some rotten apples in the bunch, but only a couple (I’m looking at you girl who ate a stinky sandwich on the bus and loudmouth that absolutely had to be the center of attention at all times).

Once we all piled back onto the bus, we headed to our next site, another waterfall named Skogafoss. While this waterfall is very different from Seljalandsfoss in appearance, it is equally as beautiful. Skogafoss is wider and taller, with a staircase snaking up one side that leads to a hiking trail (Laugavegurinn pass) that National Geographic named one of the 10 best in the world.

A rainbow stretched across the bottom of the falls, where a pool stretched over the rocky ground. There are three vantage points from which to see this waterfall: from the ground, halfway up and from the top. At the halfway point, there is a very small peninsula of land jutting out from the cliff, no railings, no safeguards. I have just a small fear of heights so it was a little scary on that ledge, but the view was beautiful.

At the top of the waterfall, there’s a barbed wire fence with a slanted wooden ladder to climb over it. This leads to the famous hike that goes along the Skoga River, where there are more waterfalls and lush green hills. The scenery here looks like something out of Lord of the Rings, it’s stunning.

I would love to come back and hike the trail; it was really tempting not to go off and let the tour go on without me. Unfortunately, I resisted the urge to split from the group and made my way back down from the top of the waterfall back to the bus. The next stops were going to be the fishing town of Vik for lunch, the Black Sand Beach and the Solheimajokull Glacier. Stay tuned for the second half of the South Coast Tour, coming soon!

Have you ever taken a group tour? Where at? And did you enjoy it?

Elding Whale Watching Tour, Reykjavik, RebeccaWanderlusting

Elding Whale Watching in Reykjavik

On October 1, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International TravelLeave a comment

Ever since I was young, I’ve been fascinated by the ocean and everything in it. I think watching the movie Jaws at an impressionable age had something to do with it. For this reason, the whale watching tour in Reykjavik was the first thing I booked for my Iceland trip. I had read plenty of reviews on tour companies there, and Elding Whale Watching Tours was the one that stuck out the most to me, so that is who I booked.

I took the tour on my third evening in Reykjavik, choosing to board the boat that left at 5:00pm. The tours depart from the Old Harbor, and all of the different companies have offices along the pier. I went to pick up my ticket from the Elding Whale Watching storefront and the woman who worked there offered me a sea sickness tablet due to the choppy water conditions and high wind, which I gladly accepted. To enter the actual boat, I walked through a boat that stayed docked which housed a gift shop and bar. When the Elding staff ushered us onto the boat we’d head out on, they offered us more sea sickness tablets and red jump suits to keep warm.

The boat had a lounge with a bar below deck, but everyone on the boat stayed up top. The guide was a marine biologist and was wonderfully informative. For the duration of the tour, she kept up a running commentary on whale facts in between shouting out things like “MINKE WHALE TEN O’CLOCK, HEADED EAST!” Every time she yelled such directives, everyone on the boat, myself included, ran to try and catch a glimpse of the whale. I’m sure this was hilarious to watch, considering the fact that the boat was rocking back and forth and we all staggered from side to side like drunkards.

The view from the boat was fantastic; Reykjavik was behind us and the mountains and never-ending ocean stood in front of us. We saw quite a few minke whales jumping out of the water, and a pod of harbor porpoises jumping alongside the boat. The tour lasted about two and a half hours and once we headed back to the harbor, most of the guests on the boat moved into the lower deck to warm up.

The excitement of being out on the sea and searching for whales made you forget about the cold, but it was quite chilly and windy out there. Once the boat was docked, the crew announced that their restaurant, Mar, would give a 15% discount for Elding tour guests, so that’s where I headed next. There are quite a few restaurants along the pier there, and Mar is at the far end.

I walked in and asked for a table for one, and seeing since the huge restaurant was mostly empty, I figured I would be seated right away. This was not the case. The host, a good-looking young man, informed me that they had a large party coming in and they wouldn’t have availability for another two hours. Thinking he was joking, I said “oh sure, I’ll just wait here then”. He was not joking. So I left and looked around outside for a party of 50-60 people that were going to take up this whole restaurant. There was none, and I won’t lie, I felt a little defeated after that. But! It turned for the best because I went across the street to Reykjavik Fish Restaurant and wound up sitting next to two American girls (one from Chicago!) who I had a great conversation with.

These ladies, coupled with the amazing fish and chips at the restaurant made up for the not so great experience at Mar. The fried cod was so light and delicious; I was very glad I ended up there for dinner. After dinner and saying goodbye to my fellow travelers, I wander around Reykjavik a bit, wondering if perhaps it was even prettier after dark. Either way, I was very happy to be there, taking it all in.

Have you ever taken a whale watching tour? Did you see any marine life?

Solo Trip Snapshots, Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach and Perlan

On September 28, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International TravelLeave a comment

On my third day in Iceland, I checked out of my AirBnB and into Hotel Holt in downtown Reykjavik. Because I was early, my room wasn’t ready so I dropped off my bags and headed towards Perlan, a futuristic-looking building with a observation deck and rotating restaurant at the top. The front desk agent at the hotel assured me that it was a walk-able distance away, and it was, but it wasn’t a very pretty walk. I looped over, under, and along the highway, and then up a set of stairs onto a path through a forest (a generous term for groves of trees in Iceland). Through the forest and a clearing filled with yellowed grass, the top of the Perlan building emerged in all its blue glass glory.

Inside, there’s a fine dining restaurant that spins, completing one full circle every hour, and a cafeteria, which is a cheaper option if you’re looking to eat here, but not by much. Around the cafeteria is the observation deck, which provides a stunning 360 degree view of the city and the mountains and ocean beyond it.

I did end up eating in the cafeteria, and paid more than I’d like to admit for a bowl of soup. But at least the complimentary view was nice! The observation deck is free to enjoy and the view is absolutely worth the hike over from downtown.

There wasn’t much else around Perlan, but according to my map it was walking distance to the Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach which was where I headed next. This actually would have been a really beautiful walk down a tree-lined trail and along the coast, however, I ran into some roadwork that cut a deep divot out of the road I was to be walking down.

There were two workers in the truck next to the construction site, and because I had no desire to turn around, I asked if I could climb through it to keep going onward. Luckily they said yes so I hopped in and climbed out the other side, waved back to the two in the truck and headed to Nautholsvik.

The Geothermal Beach was a crescent of golden sand among the grass and sidewalks. It had a locker room, a geothermal hot tub, and a portion of the Atlantic Ocean roped off for swimming. A pier flanked one side of the beach, and I walked to the end of it where there was an observation deck of sorts.

I watched locals and tourists alike enjoying the hot tub, then running into the ocean to cool off, before getting back into the naturally heated water. The experience looked very relaxing and the beach was beautiful; I was kicking myself for leaving my swimsuit back in my luggage back at the hotel. I did take of my shoes and wade into the ocean a bit, as a consolation prize.

The walk back to the hotel was equally as ugly as the walk to Perlan; this time I walked past the domestic airport and a lot of road construction. Don’t let this deter you from going though, there is a bus from downtown that goes out to Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach (Bus #5) and it really is worth a visit.

Have you ever been to either of these attractions? What’s on your must see list for Iceland?

First AirBnB Experience in Iceland, RebeccaWanderlusting

My First AirBnB Experience

On September 25, 2016 By rebeccawanderlustingIn Iceland, International Travel1 Comment

I had always been a little bit wary of AirBnB, mostly because of stories I’ve heard from friends or read online. It seemed to me that people either loved it or hated it. However, when I started planning my trip to Iceland, the prices for hotels were a little high for my budget. This coupled with the fact that I was traveling solo and wanted to meet people along the way led me to try AirBnB for the first time. I signed up and started perusing the options, instantly taking a liking to a private room that had glowing reviews and AirBnB Superhost badge. The location was pretty good too, situated in a neighborhood close to the main Grayline Bus Terminal and a short bus ride from downtown Reykjavik. Before I booked, I chatted with the host, Hulda, through email and instantly felt comfortable enough to go through with the booking.

Flash forward to a couple weeks before I was due to take off, I was panicking a bit because my flight arrived in Iceland at 7am and I wasn’t sure what I should do between then and check in time. The Blue Lagoon, a typical stop between the airport and Reykjavik, just wasn’t in my budget. I emailed Hulda and asked if it would be possible to drop my luggage off early and what time would be too early. She promptly answered yes, drop it off whenever. Not only was this a huge relief, but it also opened up more time for me to explore Reykjavik.

I arrived at the Grayline Bus Terminal after a 45 minute ride from Keflavik airport, and it was an easy 10 minute walk from there to my AirBnB. Hulda and her husband, Gustav, both greeted me at the door and cheerfully ushered me into their apartment, asking me about the flight and leading me to my room. Hulda showed me where to towels were, the drawer full of Iceland tourism brochures and maps, how to work the shower and the empty drawer in the fridge I could use for groceries if I wanted. She asked what my plans were for the day and then offered to drive me downtown since she had to run errands that way anyways. I gladly accepted and off we went.

Hulda narrated the points of interest as we went, pointing out Mount Esja looming beyond the bay, the sun voyager and Harpa Music Hall. She dropped me off at one end of the pedestrian street, and told me where I could catch the bus back to the apartment.

When I returned that evening, they helped me find a place near the apartment for dinner and drew me a map to get there and back. After dinner, I sat with them in their living room and had a wonderful conversation about travel and Iceland and just life in general. They were both so helpful, especially when giving me advice about what tourist attractions are worth it and which were fine to skip.

Because I was exhausted and the bed was so, so comfy, I woke up embarrassingly late. Even so, I was offered coffee and toast to go with the skyr (Icelandic Yogurt) I had got the night before from a grocery store. Hulda and Gustav offered to drive me over to Mount Esja that day, because they were headed out that way anyways, so as soon as I finished eating, I changed into my hiking gear and we got going. Again, they pointed out landmarks and Hulda talked a bit about her childhood, as this was the area where she grew up. When they dropped me off at the park, they made sure to tell me which buses to take to get back. That afternoon, they helped me plan out my activities for the rest of the night and mapped them out for me. By this point, I was feeling pretty spoiled to have such wonderful and caring hosts.

The next morning, before I checked out to move on to my next accommodations, I sat down with Hulda for breakfast and chatted for a while. It seemed like we were old friends already, talking about everything and nothing. I really lucked out to have her and Gustav for hosts; they were so kind and helpful and hospitable. I am so glad I got to start off my time in Iceland with them. I went into this not knowing what to expect and just hoping for the best, and after I checked out, I couldn’t imagine starting the trip off any other way.

If you find yourself planning a trip to Reykjavik and you’re looking for a place to stay, I would absolutely recommend checking out their private room with AirBnB!